Marlborough Sounds

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Marlborough Sounds Cruising Guide

An online cruising guide for yachts sailing around the Marlborough Sounds -- including Pelorus Sound and Queen Charlotte Sound and the attached bays and inlets.

Overview

Considered by many to be one of the premier cruising grounds in New Zealand, the Marlborough Sounds are at the northern end of the South Island. It contains many deep and protected bays, fjords and sounds, including the Queen Charlotte Sound, the Peolorus Sound, the Kenepuru Sound, Crail Bay, Beatrix Bay and others.

Cruising the region

Much of the information here has been provided by Bill McIndoe, a resident of Dunedin and a regular cruiser in the Nelson and Marlborough Sounds region.

Bay by Bay

Across the Tops

Across the Tops, between the two sounds, is fine scenery where you thread your way between various islands and headlands. It is our favourite 30nm of water because of the dramatic seascape and it is sheltered from the Tasman or Pacific rollers. The Sounds are sparsely settled except for small clusters of cribs (South Island lingo for shack) or bachs (North Island lingo for shack). Most have their own boats and private jetties.There are few or no roads and transportation is largely by boat. Water taxis run from Picton in QSS and Havelock in PS and there are boats that take fishing parties to the Outer Sounds where the best fishing is.

If you intend fishing DO obtain a copy of the Marlborough Sounds fishing regulations before dropping a line over the side.

Pass the Three Capes

Once you are passed the entrance to Pelorus Sound you double the three capes i.e. Alligator Head, Cape Lambert and Cape Jackson. This stretch can be a stunning sail. Cape Jackson reminds me of the outline of Gibraltar, but with the high end to seaward. At Cape Jackson take the narrow passage between the big concrete beacon and the Cape. The tides are again interesting especially the standing breaking wave which does not indicate a rock, only an underwater cliff. There is plenty of water through this passage and rocks shown on the chart are well below your draft. The recommended route is to divide the Pass into three and go one third from the headland i.e. not through the middle, on a course of SE(T). Good fishing here on the western side. See where the tourists fishing launches drift around. Don't be tempted to go north of Walkers Rock and the reef. When the tide is flooding into QSS the water is running out (west) in this pass and vica versa the opposite of what you would expect.

Queen Charlotte Sound

If you intend heading for Picton turn to starboard, south into Queen Charlotte Sound. There are many lovely bays, good moorings and anchorages in this Sound. The bays on the western side of the sound have the better shelter. There is more habitation and a few more roads than in Pelorus. Take your time, there is lots to explore. There are three charming resorts with free moorings for the night and good food. If tired of the cooking from your onboard Genius in the Galley (or visa versa) all you need is VHF contact to book in for dinner. Crew changes or shopping can be expedited by water taxi to anywhere in the Sounds. All you need is the fare and your VHF or cellphone contact.

This part of the Sounds was Captain James Cook's favourite anchorage at which he spent much time on all his three voyages to NZ. He restored his crews health with the plentiful supply of antiscurbotics, fish and fowl, as well as doing the business of charting the Sounds. Look into Ship Cove to see the commemorative truncated pyramid monument. At least it is vandal proof. There is fresh water available at the wharf but it is too shallow, lumpy and busy for anything but a brief visit. Anchor off the wharf for a short stay or pick up one of the two MCC moorings tucked into the north and the south corners of the bay. Go ashore and see. Outward Bound attendees sail and row their 32ft naval cutter all the way from Anakewa, in the southern end of QSS, and back just for fun.

Cooks Lookout

Cook climbed Long Island to get a high unobstructed view of the sound and claimed this part of NZ for the British Crown. Half way along the western side of the island there is a small landing wharf so you can do likewise and visit the lookout and commemorative plaque etc built there by the MCC. Anchor off and dinghy in. There is another MCC mooring at the south end of Long Island.

There be Dragons off The Brothers

If planning not to go up to Picton Marina or Waikawa Marina, but to force on south down the east coast of the South Island towards Banks Peninsula, double Cape Koamaru, the northern corner of Arapawa Island and pass between Arapawa Island and the Brothers. Strong tides, whirlpools and dragons live hereabouts. On one occasion I did 11.5kts over the ground with only 18kts of breeze. Any bits of wind that have nothing much to do that day will gather at the Brothers. It could be the second windiest place in NZ so be aware. Listen for "The Brothers" on the marine forecast and you will get some idea. Take the tide and if you cannot you shouldn't be there but if you do have the tide and weather go for it and sail down Arapawa Island's east coast 1.5nm off. You are now in the Pacific Ocean. Cook Strait meteorological area continues 25nm south to Cape Campbell, but is not in the Strait's main wind flow. Watch for Awash Rock 2.5nm south of The Brothers. When clear of the rock turn slightly to port to set course for Cape Campbell.

Alternative Route to the Pacific

If you do not have the tide and the weather go south into Queen Charlotte Sound and enter Tory Channel on its the eastern side. Anchor (or if a member, pick up the MCC mooring) in Hitaua Bay, second bay on the south side of the channel. When slept, feed and watered proceed down Tory Channel to the Pacific and set course for Cape Cambell.

Tasman to the Pacific

Well that is a fun way of getting across the North Coast of the South Island from Nelson to the Pacific without really getting your feet wet or going out into Cook Strait. It is a broad outline only. Much more detail will be gleaned from the NZ Pilot, the cruising guides, the charts and your chart plotter. I have been sitting here at my iPad dragging all this stuff out of my head and there is lots more in there about this passage.

The Bad Ferries

Be constantly watchful of the Picton to Wellington ferries. They are 5,000 tonnes, steam silently at 15kts and are dangerous. Their route is from Picton is out through Tory Channel, across Cook Strait to Wellington. The Channel is narrow and ferries cannot alter course to avoid a small vessel. They have absolute right of way. When in Picton/Tory Channel area a plan is to check out their sailing times on the web, by phone or at the terminal in Picton; remembering they sail both ways. They announce their intended passage through the eastern entrance of Tory Channel on VHF Ch 16 ten minutes before they arrive.

Charts

Submit the chart details that are required for safe navigation.

Weather Information

Three things to remember about the Sounds: They are bigger than you think, can be windy and are quite deep. Use the recommended moorings or anchorages. In strong conditions the wind may swirl in some anchorages. Winds tend to blow out of the bays and sometimes you may actually see yachts carrying spinnakers meeting head on.

You are only a few miles from Cook Strait but none-the-less sheltered but always have a keen weather eye and an ear cocked. Sometimes you can hear Cook Strait talking to you. Listen to the voices (and the VHF forecast).

Sources for weather information:

Regional Radio Nets

VHF and Cellphone Coverage

The transmission from the VHF towers, strategically placed to sneak into most bays, gives good coverage. Communication is excellent and reliable but study the radio channel system for the various areas. Because of the high hills and narrow waterways cellphone coverage is probably 50%. By moving the boat, going out in the dinghy for a clearer line or climbing a hill as did Cook, it can be improved.

References

Books, Guides, etc.

Cruiser's Friends

Contact details of "Cruiser's Friends" that can be contacted for local information or assistance.

Forum Discussions

List links to discussion threads on partnering forums. (see link for requirements).

External Links

Personal Notes

Personal experiences?


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Names: Haiqu, Delatbabel


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