Karpathos
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Kárpathos
Coords: {35°30.7′N, 27°12.8′E Chartlet: Chartlet Gallery: Photos |
Background
Kárpathos (Κάρπαθος), the Venetian Scarpanto, is one of the largest Dodecanese islands. Its highest mountain is Mt. Kalilimni at 1,188 m (3,900 ft). The island, with an area of 324.800 km2, is divided by this mountain in to two almost separate parts the South with most of the fertile land and inhabitants and the much wilder and isolated North. It is in the North and especially in the village of Olympos that, because of the isolation and now for, I suspect, tourist reasons, some of the folkloric customs and costumes are preserved.
Because Karpathos is isolated, it has very few anchorages, and the surrounding Karpathian Sea is notorious for its bad weather, Karpathos is very seldom visited by yachts. However, precisely for these reasons, Karpathos is one of the least spoiled islands in the Aegean and worthy of exploration.
In ancient times the island was named Porfiris, after the red dye extracted from a sea cell on the island. This dye was exported and up to the Byzantine times was used to color the garments of kings and emperors. Another ancient name for the island was Tetrapolis originating from its four cities: Vrykous, Possidion, Arkesia, and Nissyros. By the time of Homer it was called by its present name: Karpathos. It is believed that the name originates from Arpaktos or "robbery" because Karpathos was always an island of pirates. A few Mycenian artifacts have been excavated near of Pigadia.
By the middle ages pirates dominated the island and the city of Arkassa was a major slave market. In 1206 the island fell under the Frankish crusaders, to be followed by the Venetians. During the Ottoman times the Turks stayed away from this lawless island. It is said that many sunken pirate treasure lie in the bays of Vrontis and Arkassa.
In the early part of the 20th century, Karpathos, like the rest of the Dodecanese was under Italian occupation. During the World War II about 6,000 Italian troops were based on the island. After the war, Karpathos became part of Greece.
Because of the isolation of the island and poor conditions many of its inhabitants migrated to the US, and later to Australia. A sizable number of these immigrants have now returned and have brought back a sizable wealth. Karpathos today has one of of the highest university graduate population rate in Europe.
Karpathos also, has a very strong musical tradition. Like Crete the 15-syllable improvised mantinades (couplets) are very popular especially in the more isolated norther villages. Two Austrians, Rudolph Maria Brandl and Diether Reinsch after a ten year study and recordings published in 1992 a many volume work on the subject titled: Die Volksmusik der Insel Karpathos.
Charts
- BA 2824 Scarpanto (Karpathos) and Kasos islands
- Imray-Tetra G35 Dodecanese and the Coast of Turkey
- NIMA 54400 Nisos Samos to Nisos Rhodhos
- NIMA 2824 Scarpanto (Karpathos) and Kasos islands
- Greek 452 Rhodos to Castelorizo
Radio Nets
Also see Cruiser's Nets
- Greek Coast Guard - VHF channel 12, Tel. +30 2450 22 227
- Olympia Radio - VHF channel 03
Approaches to Karpathos are straightforward but there are very strong gusts during the meltemi season.
Ports and Popular Stops
Karpathos has only one harbor, of questionable safety, and considering the size of the island only a few anchorages.
Pigadia
GPS: 35°30.7′N, 27°12.8′E
Pigadia(Πυγάδια) or Port Karpathos is the only harbor in the island of Karpathos. It is exposed to the NE and with either the or south winds develops serious swell. If there is room, and if your draft allows, moor stern-to in the inner fishing harbor. Otherwise, moor stern-to with long scope. Leave boat unattended only in settled weather. Warning: The harbor is subject to very strong gusts and it can be uncomfortable and even dangerous with the meltemi. It is better to anchor in Pigadia Bay, just 2 nM north of the harbor.
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Diafani
GPS: 35°45′N, 27°12′E
The new port was built and completed in 1995 on the NE coast of Karpathos now permits large Ferry Boats from Rhodes and Piraeus to dock in Diafani.
Anchor stern to. Very helpful Greek will assist you, and drive you to Olympos, also has a great restaurant, not to be missed. ... more anon -
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AnchoragesPigadia Bay
Amorfos BayGPS: 35°28.5′N, 27°12.5′E - Chartlet Makris YialosGPS: 35°25.5′N, 27°09.6′E - Chartlet Finiki
TrístomoGPS: 35°49.3′N, 27°12.7′E Danger: DO NOT enter from either of the two N passages; they are full of reefs. Enter from the southernmost entrance. Warning: With either a strong meltemi or strong southerlies there can be fierce gusts and the seas can pile up to the point of neither entry or exit is tenable. Tourism & things to do ashoreOlymposBy far the most interesting place to visit in Karpathos is the mountain village of Olympos (Όλυμπος). It is one of the most striking villages in the Aegean perched over a stark mountain ridge. It affords a wonderful view of the area. This remote village has retained its old charming architecture. It has many narrow winding streets, many with stairs. One of the streets has been spruced up and is lined with stores and restaurants for the tourists who are brought with tour busses from Diaphani. Many of the stores are tended by ladies in Karpathian costume who sell embroideries. They had several attractive designs and they are not too expensive — 7 to 10 euros. Because of its isolation, Olympos is a historical throw back. Its inhabitants have retained their own dialect which traces back to ancient Doric and Phrygian. The music tradition as I have already mentioned, is here very strong. The Karpathian lyra (smaller than the Cretan), the lagouto, and the tsamboúra (a goatskin bagpipe) are still used. The women dressed in their traditional costume can still be seen baking their elaborate breads in wood-fired ovens in front of their houses. While tourism has invaded even Olympos, it is still not too pervasive. The busses from Diaphani come only during certain times and not off-season. You can reach Olympos by either taking a boat tour from Pygadia to Diaphani or by a long drive over a dirt road. I drove on this road with a rented motorbike, The road follows the high ridge of the island from which one can see both the East and the West coasts. The view is breathtaking and so are the gusts which threatened to blow the motorbike off the road. In many exposed spots the wind made it impossible to ride, and I had to push the bike on foot. I was scared, but I kept on pushing and riding the bike at very low speed. Despite having changed to the long pants, pullover, and storm jacket, the wind penetrated them and I was cold. After a long time I finally saw Olympos at a distance looking like a mirage. I strongly recommend this rigorous but most rewarding ride. Near OlymposA dirt road from Olympos leads to Avlóna, a village inhabited only during the harvest. From there after a two hour hike you can visit Vrykoús, the site of the ancient Phrygian city of Vourkoúnda. There are rock-cut burial chambers and some walls. In a nearby cavern there is the chapel of Ayios Ioannis. Here in August 27-29 there is a large panegyri (fiesta) where people come from all over the island and sleep outside, light fires, roast meat, dance, drink, and play traditional music. SE SideThere are several villages worth a visit NE of Pigadia. Noteworthy are Aperi the old capital of Karpathos, Othos the highest village of the island (a local red wine known as Orthiko krasi is quite good), and Piles. In Othos there is a small Ethnographic Museum. On the SE coast there are a number of very attractive and uncrowded beaches. In TrístomoIn Trístomo one can see the submerged remains of the ancient city of Nissyros. The city was founded from colonists from the island of Nissyros. SaríaOn the Saria island the ruins of Palátia (palaces) a Byzantine pirate stronghold can be visited by day-trip boat from Diaphani. It is good hike to the ruins from where the boat drops you. Fuel, Water, & Electricity
LaundryThere is an expensive laundry in Pigadia. Grocery & Supply StoresSeveral stores are in Pigadia. Eateries
Internet/WiFiAvailable? Motorbike & Car RentalsAvailable in and around Pigadia. Marine Stores & FacilitiesOnly fishing supplies. RepairsN/A Garbage DisposalTrash cans in the harbor and in many beeches. TransportationThere are daily flights and ferries to Athens and other islands. Routes/Passages To/FromPopular passages/routes, timing, etc. References & Publications
Cruiser's FriendsContact details of "Cruiser's Friends" that can be contacted for local information or assistance. Forum DiscussionsList links to discussion threads on the Cruiser Log Forum External Links
Personal NotesPersonal experiences? Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
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