Black Sea Cruising Narrative by S/Y TALA

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Cruising Narrative by S/Y TALA

The start of a Black Sea Cruise including Bulgaria, Romania and the Ukraine from May to August 2006

We motored out of Kalamis Marina in Istanbul on May 2 having cleared out of Turkey the night before. The trip up the Bosphorus took 4 hours. It was a 25 nm run and prohibited to sail. We diligently flew our motoring cone, as we had our mainsail hoisted for stability and lift. We transited the strait in a similar manner as we had the Dardanelles, staying close into the SE shoreline in hopes of picking up a counter-current. There was no evidence of a counter-current and perhaps that is in part due to the narrowness of the strait. At best, it was half a nautical wide at any point. We encountered a back eddy once but the favourable push was short lived, 300 meters or so. Winds were light and out of the NE, but they tend to funnel directly up or down the strait, still we were able to keep the main sail drawing. The temperatures were cool and we were well dressed including gloves, hats, and long underwear. Although the sky was clear and blue in the early morning hours, as the day progressed clouds rolled in and eventually blocked the warm rays of the sun.

The Bosphorus is a busy thoroughfare, shipping traffic, tugs, pilots, motor yachts and fishing vessels. We did not see another sailing yacht. We caught the occasionally glimpse of a small vessel harbour but did not venture a closer look. We did however look for the office of the Turkish Hydrographic Office, but we are unable to confirm its location. The concrete wall in the suspected vicinity would have been simply to tie to but since we had no need of charts we didn’t make the effort.

The distance from Istanbul to Bourgas Bay, Bulgaria is 138nm. It was the beginning of May and we were not in a hurry so instead of committing to an overnight sail we opted to sail by day only. We had been in Istanbul for 6 weeks and so perhaps our sea legs could use a little adjustment period.

Our first night at anchor in Poyraz Harbour located on the NE end of the Bosphorus. Well protected from northerly winds and seas it was a perfect stop. The water was full of jellyfish and not in the least bit clear. The holding was excellent in heavy mud and light weed. Our Spade anchor dropped in fifteen feet (4.5m) of water set quickly on limited scope, 3.5-1. There is limited swing room due to the multitude of fishing boats rafted three abreast. A generator on shore ran all night and fishing boats came and went at great speed at all hours. We rolled in their wakes. What we saw from the anchorage was not very appealing. We did not go ashore. The dinghy was stowed. We wanted to relax and prepare for the next leg of our trip. We could either depart at first light and sail 109 nm to Bourgas or depart at a more respectable 8 am for Igneada, Turkeys last port, 65 nm to the northwest. We opted for the latter.

We woke to see waves breaking on the rocks south of the harbour entrance. We could feel the bight of a cold northeast wind on our cheek as we hoisted main inside the protection of the breakwaters. We were experiencing 10-to 12 knots inside the harbour and the seas state told us it would be more like 15 to 20 on the outside, a good day to sail northwest in fresh northeast winds with a single reef. We kept the motor humming as we cut across the top of the Bosphorus shipping lanes toward the ruins of Garicpe Br. Once clear of the Traffic Separation Lanes we turned north on a 13 degree course until we pasted the western side of the straits entrance. It was a lumpy ride with seas in the shoaling waters running six to eight feet with mere seconds between them. I attempted to take pictures of this point but the images were so poor I eased them from the camera. Now that is where the digital camera comes into its element. No more waiting on film development and forgetting what you photographed.

Once clear of the northwest point, an hour and a half after departure, we set the genoa, turned off the engine and settled in for a lovely reach in 15 to 20 knots of wind. As we drew further away from the land, the seas moderated. They were still running six feet but with a longer wave period and no reversing backwash from the shoreline. Winds held at 18-22 knots out of the NE. We saw limited traffic but a large number of ships anchored off KumKoy. We had a glorious sail. The boat was tracking well, the wind was steady, and we were making a respectable 7.5 to 8 knots. The barometer was holding steady at 1029 mmb and the few cirrus clouds were not threatening. For our intended course, we could not have asked for better.

We held this course and wind until 1600 hours. As we began drawing near the Turkish coast the wind headed us, shifting north, we were close reaching on approach to Igneada and those last 12 nm. Winds were now 50 to 60 degrees off the starboard bow, the seas steeper and shorter once more. With each mile we drew closer to the coast under Koru Burna the wind gusted with increasing force, but once tucked well in the lee of Koru Burna the winds moderated to 15 knots and the seas laid down to a respectable 2-3 feet, just in time to drop sail and prepare to anchor.

Igneada is a quiet anchorage well protected from the NW to N through E. We anchored in 17 feet (5m) of water in good holding in mud, sand and weed. Sorry I have no picture. I was glad to relax with a drink in hand after an excellent sail, even though it was chilly sitting outside once the sun lowered on the horizon. There was no noisy generator, or fishing boats leaving at speed to roll us in their wash. The fuel dock was jammed with small fishing vessels so it was impossible to tell if fuel was available or not. The town is 5 km from the harbour. We did not go ashore.

Our departure from Igneada was a little tardy. We were not in an extreme hurry so 8:30 was okay. The estimated distance to Bourgas Bay, Bulgaria is 54.2 nm and we would have daylight until at least 8 pm. The trip started out with fresh winds NE 15 knots. The seas close in to the coast off the Cape Koru headland was running 5-6 feet and short. By 10 am, the seas began to moderate and the wind was steady at 15 knots. We were close-hauled but Tala settled in well. The weather forecast at 10:30 am (local time) on VHF 26 forecasted NE 4 Beaufort so approximately 15 knot of wind in the Aktapol area. We were not disappointed. However, the range of sea conditions for the Black Sea was NE 2-4 meaning anywhere from 5 to 15 knots. Conditions at Bourgas reported at F 6. By 13:30 the wind had dropped to F 2 and we motored the remaining distance to Bourgas. Winds picked up again closer to Bourgas F 3/4 ENE by late afternoon. We decided to cut inside Sveti Ivan Island and view Sozopol from the north. The harbour of Sozopol is well protected and the accompanying town is quaint and attractive.

We wanted to make our official entry into Bulgaria in good daylight and within regular operating hours. We did not actually know their hours and have found in some countries overtime charges for arrivals outside regular business hours. Regardless we arrived at 17:30. After hoisting the “Q” flag on the portside flag halyard, I called Port Control Bourgas on channel 16. Hearing nothing, I switched to VHF 11 and heard them calling us. They directed us to berth at Quay 6 for entry clearance. They were very polite and they all spoke English. The Entry procedure was very efficient, however the docking on Quay 6 was a little on the tight side to say the least. We needed to come along the pier between a steel commercial ship and the steel hull of the Harbourmasters motor boat, with the wind blowing us off at 15 knots. At 15.35m in overall length, 17 m of docking space and no bow thruster it was a challenge Wayne preformed marvellously.

Customs, Passport or Immigration Officers and Harbourmaster all came aboard. The Immigration officials (2) inspected our passports, took a signed copy of our crew list, stamped a copy, and returned it to us. They asked for a ship’s stamp, which we do not possess. This is our first of many encounters for a ships stamp. The lack of a ships stamp was not a problem in Bulgaria. Passports were stamped and returned to us. Harbour officials along the Bulgarian coast can later inspect this document we were told. None ever did. The harbourmaster took a copy of our current registration and the original of our old registration. Our registration had expired April 1 2006 and the new one was still in Vancouver awaiting a new mailing address. We can collect our registration from him on departure from Bourgas.

They escorted us to the Customs Office where we filled in a few more papers and everything was complete in less than ten minutes. They required a declaration stating that we had no firearms, munitions, stowaways, narcotics, dutiable cargo. Standard stuff really. They wanted a list of alcohol, tobacco and any expensive pieces of equipment. We happen to have a list of all the electronic and computer equipment aboard and that satisfied them. The agent was very pleasant. Since Bourgas is primarily a commercial port this all falls with in the realm of commercial vessels and the paperwork remains the same even though there are a lot of N/A’s, none and no comments throughout.

All the officials wanted to know how long we would stay in Bulgaria and where we were going. I had prepared a list of harbours for our trip north and showed this to them, informing them of our intention to check out of Balchik for Romania. This would be no problem and we were free to travel throughout Bulgaria with the boat. It appears there are no restrictions as to where we could go. Should we decide to leave the boat in Bulgaria and leave by other means we would be required to complete some customs paperwork but there was no problem should we decide to do that. The customs office closed their file on us noting we would clear from Balchik to Romania without any predicted date stipulated.

After completing their entry formalities, we were blown off the Customs pier and headed to the Yacht Club, as far as we knew the only place to moor in Bourgas Bay. By 7 pm Tala was secured in a berth med moor style. Later after looking out from the town we discovered an anchorage beyond the commercials piers. There were a couple local boats moored there. Next time we are in Bourgas we will anchor there. It appears well protected even from the predominant East winds. The charge at the Yacht Club we were told is 17 Euros for the night, based on sq meters, ours being 65SQ M. We would pay the man tomorrow afternoon on departure. We looked around Bourgas the next day and found the local ATM for Bulgarian currency.

Time to leave Bourgas, surprise the Yacht Club charges have doubled. They calculate the rate based on a midnight clock. From your initial arrival until midnight you are charged for one day 16.67 Euros (vessels over 59 sq M ). Regardless of weather, you have been there 23 and a ½ hours or 1 hour. Day 2 then starts from midnight until the following midnight. We were there all of 20 hours and charged for 2 days. Initially they wanted 34 Euros, this did not include power or water, as those would have been extra. We did not take either regardless. We pointed out to them that their posted price shows the 2nd through the 10th day at a much lower rate, 5.83 Euros. This brought the total to 22.50 Euros and finally that was the agreed amount. We were both sore about this and not because of the additional 5.83 but the principle behind it. How they can justify the berthing dues based on a midnight clock, it is simple ludicrous.

Now that we know where the anchorage is, we will never return to the Yacht Club in Bourgas nor will we recommend it to others. It is not a comfortable berth. The wash from passing pilot boats is annoying and sometimes dangerous. The rough concrete wall is high and the tying rings are very rusty. The boats, many of them steel, moored there are so loosely secured they swing dangerously close. The moorings are not in good repair. We dropped our own anchor for the sake of security. The long walk through a dirty commercial harbour filled with working cranes does not reflex well on the rest of the town. It is impossible not to track black dust and grime onto the boat from the immediate area inside the commercial harbour. The town itself was worth the visit and was a pleasing contrast.

Our next stop was Pomoria, a small town eight miles away on the north side of Bourgas Bay. Winds were NE so the anchorage was very calm. The large breakwater and quay did not look inviting to yachts as the sides were very high and built of rough concrete. We did not attempt to tie to the harbour wall. We dropped anchored and settled in for the evening. Much to our dismay, the winds turned over night to the S and we had a bumpy ride. The wall would have been worse so we were glad to be at anchor When we dinghy ashore the “Passport Polis” met us on the dock and wrote our information in his little black book.

Pomoria is a small town and the claim to fame is wine and brandy. In this respect, we were not disappointed. One can afford to be an alcoholic at Bulgarian prices they are certainly more reasonable than Turkey. We found the internet café and checked out the weather forecast. Winds are due to clock around from SE to S to SW over the weekend before finally becoming W to NW by Monday. We decided to leave Pomoria as we were already into the roll of the southerly winds and seek a more protected anchorage or harbour.

Our next stop on the Bulgarian coast was Nessebar, eight miles to the northeast. Set on the end of small peninsula the remains of the 6th Century BC fort are prominent. Nessebar Peninsula is a tourist oriented town with souvenir shops, restaurants advertising “Full English Breakfast”, multi language menus and the usual cruise ship traffic and guided tours of the 6th century ruins.

The Yacht Club is a little on the run down side compared to the tourist section of town. On the outer quay, there is no water or electric. The daily charge is 30 BGN approximately 15 Euros per night. No inquires regarding boat measurements was made. Currently most of the boats are out of the water and crew are busy painting and polishing. The season is just beginning. The YC manager/owner is a grumpy old fellow, but the local boat owners and workers all came out to the boat to lend a hand tying up. The Passport Police were there immediately to check us out. The usual note in their little black book after a look at our passports and that was all. The shore power connections are the standard European 2-prong household plugs. Weather or not the circuit is properly grounded for marine applications we do not know. The Yacht Club manager assured us that there was 4 meters of water throughout the basin but careful sounding said otherwise. We found eight to twelve feet and even less closer into the hardstanding area and adjacent to the new fuel pier. The rock off the northeast quay remains unmarked. It surprises us that they do not either remove the rock or mark it. We have to wonder how many times boats have run into it. It was not visible. Twelve feet of water exists inside the NE quay and less than seven feet at the new fuel pontoon. Diesel is currently priced are 1.76 BGN/L, less than a Euro per L. There are a limited number of mooring in place but designed for small yachts of thirty feet or less. In the right wind conditions, SE-SW the anchorage to the north of Nessebar point is pleasant. Sound carefully inside the 4m depth contour as unmarked rocks are scattered throughout the area.

From the Yacht Club a walk in the opposite direction up the short hill leads into the residential town, the regular shops, green grocers and hardware shops are located there. New construction is all around, and a large portion appear to be holiday and hotel complexes.

This copy of the chart is not very good but at least it will give you an overview of the area, Bourgas at the bottom, followed by Pomoria, Nessebar, Cape Emine, and finally Byala.

After spending a few days in Nessebar, we set sail for Byala, a small fishing harbour twenty miles to the north. The locals warned us that Byala was shallow. We knew this and were prepared as best we could be. Forecasted wind was off the land NW to N. If we could not find shelter inside the breakwaters due to the shallowness of the harbour, at least we should not have a sea swell or a lee shore. Had the winds been east or south we would have past this harbour and gone directly to Varna.

We sprang ourselves off the dock for the wind was pressing us onto it and were clear of the harbour by 10:45 am. We had west-northwest winds of 10 to 12 knots as we headed out of Nessebar. We beam reached leisurely on a port tack making an easy 6 knots. The sky was blue with patches of cumulus clouds and the barometer steady at 1018 mbs. The further from Nessebar we sailed the more northwest the wind became until we were close reaching in 15 to 18 knots. The perfect blue sky was clouding over and the wind was building, promising an invigorating beat up the coast as the wind was almost surely to turn N once near Cape Emine. We tucked a single reef in the main and prepared for the wind shift. From Cape Emine to Byala in a straight line is ten miles. We short tacked approximately every 25 minutes with winds NNW 15 to 18 knots and two feet of wind chop. There was a residual easterly swell.

Byala's small point, affords protection from the north, was large enough to have a venture effect on the wind. Winds gusted 25 to 30 knots as we closed the harbour. We furled the jib and sailed under reefed main still attaining 6 to 7 knot speeds. Once close in we dropped the mainsail and anchored quickly outside the harbour in twelve feet of water over golden sand. A large black cloud appeared and threatened heavy rain. Within minutes of setting anchor, the deluge began. You can see from the picture how far we are from the harbour, but a couple hours later we were able to pick up anchor and carefully sound our way in, anchoring in nine feet of water. Tala’s draft is seven feet. There is no tide. Once we settled behind the protection of the breakwater the roll, from the residual easterly swell, ceased and a more comfortable night passed. Entering the harbour took a careful eye and constant bearings with the engine in slow ahead and ready for a quick retreat if necessary, likewise on departure the next day.


That spring day in early May was one of those blissful sails dreams are made of. It was partially cloudy but the sun was warming nicely and the wind blew gently from the west, slowly blowing the clouds out to sea. Our course, due north, was close in on the coast with twenty-five meters of water below our keel. Beam reaching in 10 to 12 knots of breeze, flat seas coupled with a continual supply of beautiful sandy beaches, wooded hillsides, and colourful bouquets of trees and shrubs in full spring bloom. Yellows, purples, and pinks abound amidst the dark green foliage of chestnut, elm, and ash trees. Scattered along the shoreline were housing and holiday development that did nothing to distract from the seamless beauty. The splendid month of May, so much like Vancouver, with the added bonus of being warmer.


As we approached Galata, the southern point in Varna Bay, the wind backed to the southwest. We eased sheets and came into Varna Bay until west winds returned, headed us, and forced furling the headsail. We started the engine and continued in with just our main up. Having received no reply on the VHF from Port control we decided to look around. It was early afternoon 1pm and the sun was warm. We ventured into Varna Lake, which gave us a view of the backside of the city. We expected to find a decent anchorage there but were sorely disappointed. The water was filthy and huge columns of black smoke billowed from the numerous smoke stacks of industry. There were two small yacht clubs but neither looked appealing. The water was shoaling rapidly and we were still 300 meters from their piers. We did however take the opportunity to flake the mainsail, secure the sail cover in place, wiggle the ten fenders from the jam packed foredeck locker and neatly hang fenders and line in preparation for docking at the Varna Yacht Club. After we finished we calmly motored back out the river entry and under the bridge.


Meanwhile on the south bank of the river two border police were ambitiously following us, racing down the road ahead to intercept us. They waved us over. They wanted to see our paperwork. We merely said we were on our way to the Varna Yacht Club and perhaps they could catch up with us there, since stopping where we were was not feasible. They agreed to this and we all continued on our way, us ½ nm across Varna Bay to the Yacht Club.

And then, up the road over the bridge and a long route around and through the sprawling city of Varna to reach the Port at the extreme opposite end of the bay. Wayne and I still laugh about the incident. It took those poor cops four times longer to reach the port than us. We docked easily on a side tie, though there are moorings for med moor style, we would have been too large. We went below to await the border/passport polices arrival. Naturally just as they came so did the afternoon thunderstorm and with it a great dousing of rain. I wanted to rinse the salt off the boat, minimal those it was, but now there was no need for that. We did fill our main saloon water tanks from a convenient hose but did not bother with power because once more, it is a household type plug outlet and our shore power cord has a standard marine 3-prong plug.

The city of Varna has a relaxing atmosphere. There are shady parks with fountains and monuments. The navel history museum is fascinating and the main shopping and walking district are pleasantly arrayed with brick and cobblestones streets devoid of vehicular traffic. Restaurants, cafes, clothing shops, cell phones, electronics and household appliances, jar shops, also know as liquor stores, and are everywhere. Banks and ATM are numerous. There are a few marine stores in the outlying area and a large Metro cash and carry shop on the backside of the town. Had we anchored in the dirty lake we would have been closer to it, however the No. 41 bus taken from the railway station, dropped us within a 200 yards and the return taxi cost all of 8BNG ($4US). We enjoyed a few days here in Varna and come away with good impressions.

Golden Sands Marina, 14 nm up the coast, reported to offer covered winter storage was on our list of possible stops. After further investigation, we discovered that it is only appropriate for small motor yachts in the 20-foot range and a maximum height of 4 m. Even with the mast down Tala would not fit under cover so we forgo the stop at Golden Sands. With only two remaining stops in Bulgaria, weather will dictate where we go next. The anchorage at Kavarna, near Cape Kaliakra, is open to winds from SW-W to NW so unfortunately we missed this one too. Balchik is a Port on Entry and therefore a required stop for exit stamps and sailing permission to Romania.

It is now May 11 and we leave Varna for Balchik, our last Bulgarian port. The winds are light perhaps enough to sail by but our batteries need charging so we motor with the main up for lift and stability. The first six miles is a concrete jungle of holiday developments. We saw the real estate postings in Varna for Sunny Beach Condominiums and curiosity got the better of us. We sailed close enough to have a look at what all the hype was about and moved on quickly. It was not our idea of rest and relaxation. Farther up the coast, away from the rapid development, the rolling hills and lush growth forest prevailed again. The few homes scattered among them add character and here one can find peace and tranquility. However, perhaps the rush of modernization is what people desire. To be check and jowl with their neighbours and one of a thousand lying in the sand praying to the sun gods of skin cancer. The beaches are lovely, only scarred by the human bodies and their litter inevitably left behind and washed out to sea on the next tide. It is May and not August, we can enjoy these beaches in all their natural splendour.

Balchik harbour is surprisingly full. Fishing Boats are rafted two and three abreast on the south breakwater. We were able to take the mooring of another yacht currently out of the water in Varna and not due back for many weeks. The town, situated on a steep hill, keeps the leg muscles fit because to get anywhere it is an uphill climb. At least the return is somewhat easier.

The largest scar on the once beautiful harbour face is the new hotel development on the waterfront. Previously two small hotels, two and three stories high looked across the street. The guests enjoyed a harbour vista, as could anyone walking along the esplanade. The homes behind still enjoyed a view, as those on the street below did not obstruct it. These hotels, nicely trimmed with marble steps and whitewashed walls, bougainvillea, roses, and other flowers planted in beds and containers around the hotel, white rote iron balconies off each room overlooking the harbour and the view to the south. That is all lost now as three monstrous ten-story hotels are stand in front of them completely eradicating the view, ambiance, and atmosphere of not only the hotels but also the homes further up the hill. To say the local people are extremely upset about this development is an understatement. There was no council meeting or planning board. The local people had no say. European investors supplied the money to mafia tycoons who in turn bribed the government officials and received permission to build.

We enjoyed our time in Bulgaria. We recommend fellow cruisers to make the effort to go there. They will be pleasantly surprised. Although there is still a bit of a mix up regarding “temporary cruising permits” cruising the area is painless. They are trying to change thing but the government is slow to react because the demand is low. It cost us E50 to clear Tala out of the country for Romania but nothing on arrival. We did not need visas for ourselves. The cost of living by our standards is low making everyday purchases inexpensive. To come back from the green grocers with full bags and only 12 BGN or $6US out of pocket is normal. Perhaps with the exception of Golden Sands, most Yacht Clubs are located inside the commercial ports, which are often dirty places but there are plenty of anchorages to explore and none to far away that you could not run for protection in the event of foul weather. There is a daily weather forecast on VHF 26 at 10am/pm and 4am/pm respectively, although it does not offer more than one days notice, for the most part in the summer months it is sufficient for cruisers needs. Travelling out of the summer season a Navtex would be advisable. Internet cafes are available although often located in basements with weak lights, perhaps for the sake of the game players, who are the most frequent users. The GSM networks works well everywhere and Sim cards are inexpensive and readily available. Pedestrian have the right of way on crosswalk and even when jay walking. You will not hear the sound of car horns blasting every few seconds. It was the first bright contrast to Turkey and we revelled in it. The people are polite and courteous; they try to help as best they can. After our incident in Bourgas with their ridiculous charge band, a neighbour feeling poorly about the representation of his country and people gave us a bottle of wine. Schools teach English so you will find communications easier. The biggest hurdle in the Bulgarian language is the Cyrillic alphabet, similar to Greece and Russia. It has not stopped Europeans from travelling to Greece so it should be no more of an impediment in Bulgaria.


I am sorry I am unable to properly download the pictures that were meant to accompany this narrative.

Sue S/Y TALA

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