Leros

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Latest revision as of 15:42, 5 October 2023

An online cruising guide for yachts sailing to Leros.

Leros/wiki/Leros

Leros There are Port(s) of Entry here 37°9.16′N, 26°50.13′E37.152666666667;26.8355 destination

lat=37_9.16_N | lon=26_50.13_E | zoom=11 | y

Satellite View of Leros

Leros (Λὲρος) is a fairly low island of 53 km² and 8,000 inhabitants. It has many beautiful beaches and unspoiled villages and a wildly serrated coastline. Poor Leros, she has been downgraded for centuries. First, the name which means "dirty" and "malodorous." Then, the large psychiatric hospitals, then the terrible legacy of the very destructive Battle of Leros during the WW II when she was bombarded for over 50 days and finally invaded by the Germans in a dramatic landing. During the days of the junta Leros was a place of exile and torture housing the infamous prison of Partheni. Finally, in more recent times it has received some very bad press concerning conditions in the remaining psychiatric hospital.

Charts

BA

2682 Kolpos Patalion to Nisos Nisiros

3926 Lero island and approaches

Imray-Tetra

G34 Southern Cyclades

NIMA

54400 Samos to Rodhos

Greek

451 Leros to Rhodos

Weather

See Aegean Sea.

Passages

• Passages between Athens Region and Samos - Kusadasi
• N - S Passages in East Aegean
• Cruising the Dodecanese Islands

Islands

Archangelos

Archangelos/wiki/Leros#Archangelos

island Archangelos [[Leros#Archangelos|Archangelos]] (Αρχάγγελος) 37°12.126'N, 026°46.287'EArchangelos37.2021;26.77145

This is a small island about 0.5 nm N of Partheni. There are two coves on the S side of the island. The E cove is dominated by a fish farm. A cove at the SW is more suitable for anchorage.

Communication

• Coast Guard - VHF channel 12
• Olympia Radio - channel 23 at the W of the island; no good signal on the S and E sides

Also see World Cruiser's Nets.

Navigation

The approaches to Leros are straightforward, most of the offshore islets being steep-to. If approaching the main harbour of Lakki from the north, however, be sure to avoid the group of above-water rocks extending about half a mile offshore just NW of the entrance.

Danger: With a strong meltemi there are violent gusts when entering the bays of Lakki and Alindas. Also, with strong southerlies there are gusts and large swells in the bay of Lakki.

Entrance

There is a customs office on the quay in Lakki. I am not sure if this is formally a Port of Entry but I was able to clear out here in July 2011. --Nereus 09:19, 12 August 2011

In 2014 Leros became a Port of Entry to Greece. --Istioploos 17:01, 27 October 2014 (GMT)

Berthing

Ports

Lakki

Lakki/wiki/Leros#Lakki

harbour Lakki [[Leros#Lakki|Lakki]] (Λακκί) 37°07.599'N, 026°51.161'ELakki37.12665;26.85269

Port of Entry

This is the main harbor of the island. It is located on the W side of the island. Lakki is a deep inlet and it is the largest harbor of the Dodecanese, affording all-round protection. On the NW side of the harbor there is small marina operated by Agmar. See Agmar Lakki Marina.

On the E side there is the Evros shipyard and marina, See Evros Leros Marina.

It is possible for a few yachts to anchor moor in front of the prominent old customs building, about 100 metres east of the Agmar Marina berths and clear of the alongside coastguard berth. Shelter is excellent here from the prevailing winds.

Finally, it is possible to anchor off in front of the town in depths of 5.0 – 6.0 metres. There may be some uncomfortable swell but with northerlies it is safe. The bottom is mud and provides good holding.

Lakki is an unusual town, not at all what one would expect from a Greek island capital. No narrow, cobbled streets and dazzlingly white buildings here, but rather broad, sweeping boulevards lined with monumental architecture from the days when Lakki was an Italian-owned showpiece from the Mussolini era. It’s a style of architecture that doesn’t appeal to everyone today, although one hopes its day will come before the remaining unrestored buildings are allowed to crumble into dust. Meanwhile, it reminds one of a De Chirico painting.

Chart of Lakki Harbor

Lakki Marina

Quay of Lakki Marina

Pandéli

Pandéli/wiki/Leros#Pand.C3.A9li

harbour Pandéli [[Leros#Pandéli|Pandéli]] (Παντέλι) 37°08.98′N, 26°51.77′EPandéli37.149666666667;26.862833333333

Pandéli or Panali is a small harbor on the E side of the island and, while very attractive, is normally full of fishing boats. At the harbour entrance (July 2009) is a sign indicating that the harbour is for fishing boats only, so if you visit here it would be wise to anchor off in the bay or go stern-to the rocky headland at Vromolithos, the adjoining bay, to avoid any possible confrontation.

We have just returned (july 2012). One wouldn't think of using the harbour in a yacht. There is plenty of room to anchor or mediterranean moor SW of the harbour, and a short dinghy trip takes you ashore to the very attractive beach by the harbour under the castle and the windmills to enjoy first class boiled octopus.....

Chart of Pandéli Harbor

The harbour and anchorage at Pandeli

Pandeli harbour

Marinas & Yacht Clubs

• Agmar Lakki Marina
• Evros Leros Marina

Anchorages

Xerocambos

Xerocambos/wiki/Leros#Xerocambos

buoy Xerocambos [[Leros#Xerocambos|Xerocambos]] (Ξηρόκαμπος) 37°06.434'N, 026°52.331'EXerocambos37.10723;26.87219

Xerocambos or Xirocambos is a very attractive and large anchorage on the S side of the island. It affords very good protection from the meltemi (although gusts enter the bay) but it is exposed to the S. Around fourteen moorings have been laid in the bay by the tavernas ashore and, if you use one, you will be expected to dine at the taverna concerned. The yellow ones belong to the Aloni Taverna towards the left of the beach (run by Lefteris and Evelyn), which is particularly friendly to yachtsmen. The orange ones belong to the Mama Vita taverna in the centre of the beach. If anchoring, look for a spot of sand and anchor in 5-6 metres (the bottom is mostly weed and holding is not always very good). Once the anchor holds, however, the cove is very secure. It is about one hour walk to Lakki which is also served by bus. I have recently been told by the owner of the Taverna Aloni that all the moorings have been removed in the bay (September 2023).

About an hour walk up the ridge on the E side of Xerocambos there is an abandoned WW II Italian house with wall frescoes painted by the Italian soldiers garrisoned there.

Chart of Xerocambos

Xerocambos from Paliokastro

Xerocambos anchorage

Vromolithos

Vromolithos/wiki/Leros#Vromolithos

anchorage Vromolithos [[Leros#Vromolithos|Vromolithos]] (Βρωμόλιθος) 37°08.8′N, 26°51.7′EVromolithos37.146666666667;26.861666666667

Vromolithos is a small anchorage on the SE side of the island, just west of Pandeli, with room for several yachts to anchor in the lee of the headland. Either anchor in 8-12 metres just off the headland and take a long line back to the rocks (this position offers the best protection from the meltemi) or anchor in 6-7 metres outside the buoyed swimming area off the beach. The holding here is good in sand and weed and the shelter also good (although gusts will be experienced with strong N/NW winds). The Paradiso Taverna above the beach does a boiled octopus to die for and Dimitris O Karaflas taverna on top of the headland offers excellent food at sensible prices and is invariably packed with locals.

The Cafe -Restaurant- Night club CafeDelMar on the waterfront is reputed to be friendly to cruisers and allows them to use their paths to access other uphill eating establishments and Pandeli. Its owner Koutsanellos Lefteris can be reached at +30 22470 24766.

Yachts anchored at Vromolithos

Vromolithos& Pandéli from the Kastro

Alindas

Alindas/wiki/Leros#Alindas

anchorage Alindas [[Leros#Alindas|Alindas]] (Άλινδας) 37°10′N, 26°50.4′EAlindas37.166666666667;26.84

Alindas or Alinda is a large bay on the east coast of Leros which offers better protection than would at first appear from the meltemi. Anchor off the beach at the NW end of the bay in 4-5 metres, clear of the numerous small craft moorings, where there is little swell and only moderate gusts in winds up to 6/7 Beaufort. If the gusts get too much, Vromolithos to the south usually offers slightly better shelter. The bottom at Alindas is sand and rock and you may need more than one attempt to get your anchor to hold. Nevertheless, it is an attractive spot with some good tavernas ashore. There is also an interesting folklore/WW II museum in a nicely maintained private mansion, the Bellinis Tower.

Chart of Alindas Bay

The anchorage at Alindas

Blefouti

Blefouti/wiki/Leros#Blefouti

anchorage Blefouti [[Leros#Blefouti|Blefouti]] (Μπλεφούτι) 37°11.49′N, 26°49.23′EBlefouti37.1915;26.8205

Blefouti or Blefoutis or Plakouti is an attractive cove on the NE side of the island. It is reasonably well protected from the meltemi (though shelter is not as good as at Partheni) and in winds from W through to SE. The most sheltered, westerly, side of the anchorage is mostly taken up with small boat moorings and yachts therefore need to anchor closer to the middle of the cove. The bottom is sand and weed, not always good holding.

Danger: There are several reefs at the entrance to the cove and on its E side. Enter from the E of the reef but stay away from the E shore.

I Thea Artemis/wiki/Leros#.27.27I_Thea_Artemis.27.27eatingout I Thea Artemis [[Leros#I Thea Artemis|I Thea Artemis]] is a small taverna ashore that serves good fresh fish.

The Blefouti cove

Partheni

Partheni/wiki/Leros#Partheni

anchorage Partheni [[Leros#Partheni|Partheni]] (Παρθένι) 37°11.39′N, 26°48.06′EPartheni37.189833333333;26.801

Partheni is a large landlocked bay on the N side of the island. There is a naval installation on the W side of the bay and a military camp to the SE. Agmar/wiki/Leros#.5Bhttp:.2F.2Fwww.lakki-marina.gr.2F_Agmar.5Dservice Agmar [[Leros#Agmar|Agmar]] 37°11.326'N, 026°48.248'EAgmar37.18877;26.80413 operates a shipyard with a 70 ton travel lift; for details see below. Agmar maintains four mooring buoys in front of its facilities, which clients can use temporarily. The airport is only 100 metres away.

There is excellent protection on the north side of the inner cove at the eastern end of the bay. Anchor clear of the numerous moorings on the south side of the cove and the small fish farm to the northwest. Even in a strong meltemi your boat is safe here. However, the setting is not very attractive and there is nothing in the way of facilities. The nearest taverna is opposite the airport some two kilometres away. Added to this is the presence of the military camp, the site of the notorious Partheni prison where many political prisoners were tortured during the days of the junta.

Archontiko/wiki/Leros#.27.27Archontiko.27.27eatingout Archontiko [[Leros#Archontiko|Archontiko]] a taverna very close to the shipyard popular with cruisers.

• N Cove/wiki/Leros#N_Coveanchorage N Cove [[Leros#N Cove|N Cove]] 37°12.1′N, 26°47.9′EN Cove37.201666666667;26.798333333333 This is a small pleasant cove just N of Partheni. The cove is somewhat exposed to the meltemi but in settled weather it a good place to stop for a swim. Good holding at 6 m.

• NW Cove/wiki/Leros#NW_Coveanchorage NW Cove [[Leros#NW Cove|NW Cove]] 37°11.5′N, 26°46.6′ENW Cove37.191666666667;26.776666666667 While this cove is well protected from the S winds, it is not as good an anchorage as it looks because it is deep and then it gets shallow very quickly and at depths of 3-5 m there is lot of weed with very few patches of sand so the anchor may not hold well here.

Chart of Partheni

The inner anchorage at Partheni

SW Cove

SW Cove/wiki/Leros#SW_Cove

anchorage SW Cove [[Leros#SW Cove|SW Cove]] 37°11.9′N, 26°46.3′ESW Cove37.198333333333;26.771666666667

This is a pleasant anchorage in Archangelos. Anchor over a patch of sand in 5.0 metres. Good shelter and holding. The reef on the east side of this cove offers excellent snorkeling.

To Stigma/wiki/Leros#.27.27To_Stigma.27.27eatingout To Stigma [[Leros#To Stigma|To Stigma]] is a taverna opened in June 2013. Its proprietors Yiorgo, Europe Agonos and their daughter Demetra, from Leros, are operating in year round. The food is very good. --Istioploos 17:01, 27 October 2014 (GMT)

SW Anchorage in Archangelos

The SW cove in Archangelos Island

The anchorage

Amenities

Provisioning

Note: all shops in Lakki (except the large supermarkets) close at 1330 on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The supermarkets are closed on Sundays.

Spanos/wiki/Leros#.27.27Spanos.27.27provisions Spanos [[Leros#Spanos|Spanos]] Is the largest supermarket in Lakki. If you buy large quantities of groceries, both stores will deliver it to the marina or the shipyard.

Kamara/wiki/Leros#.27.27Kamara.27.27provisions Kamara [[Leros#Kamara|Kamara]] Is a "new" large supermarket, a few km from Partheni.

Mikes/wiki/Leros#.27.27Mikes.27.27provisions Mikes [[Leros#Mikes|Mikes]] Is a bakery next to the Post Office in Lakki that has very good bread.

Eating out

Lunchtime in Pandeli, Leros

In general the food is good in Leros.

• Lakki

Petrino/wiki/Leros#.27.27Petrino.27.27eatingout Petrino [[Leros#Petrino|Petrino]] Has the best meat in Lakki. The restaurant is next to the post office. The pork souvlaki is especially delicious and excellent value at €10 (August 2010).

Ostria Restaurant/wiki/Leros#.27.27Ostria_Restaurant.27.27eatingout Ostria Restaurant [[Leros#Ostria Restaurant|Ostria Restaurant]] Overlooking the harbor in Lakki between the town and Lakki Marina. Frequented by boaters, the food is very good and the people are welcoming. (June 2017).

Persiana/wiki/Leros#.27.27Persiana.27.27eatingout Persiana [[Leros#Persiana|Persiana]] Owned by the same family as Artemis Boatyard. An alternative to Greek food with burgers, salads, enchiladas and a long selection of beer. (June 2017).

• Vromolithos

Dimitris o Karaflas/wiki/Leros#.27.27Dimitris_o_Karaflas.27.27eatingout Dimitris o Karaflas [[Leros#Dimitris o Karaflas|Dimitris o Karaflas]] Some of the best cooking in the island is to be found here at the top of the hill at the north end of Vromolithos beach. The views here are as impressive as the food - try the fillets of perch baked in the oven (tel. +30 22470 25626). You can anchor in the bay of Vromolithos below.

Taverna Paradisos/wiki/Leros#.27.27Taverna_Paradisos.27.27eatingout Taverna Paradisos [[Leros#Taverna Paradisos|Taverna Paradisos]] is another famous estaurant with excellent atmosphere and Greek food accompanied with local wine is in the centre of Vromolithos (tel: +30 22470 24632). Free Wi-Fi. Note: Every Saturday Stamatis, the owner, plays bouzouki with his son, Manolis, (on accordion) and makes everyone feel companionship.

Frangos/wiki/Leros#.27.27Frangos.27.27eatingout Frangos [[Leros#Frangos|Frangos]] Has good food

• Ayia Marina

Mylos/wiki/Leros#.27.27Mylos.27.27eatingout Mylos [[Leros#Mylos|Mylos]] Has excellent sea food and a beautiful setting on the water next to the windmill.

• Alindas

Finikas/wiki/Leros#.27.27Finikas.27.27eatingout Finikas [[Leros#Finikas|Finikas]] By the sea

To Steki tou Dimitri/wiki/Leros#To_Steki_tou_Dimitrieatingout To Steki tou Dimitri [[Leros#To Steki tou Dimitri|To Steki tou Dimitri]] Further along, past the road to the airport.

Varelia/wiki/Leros#.27.27Varelia.27.27eatingout Varelia [[Leros#Varelia|Varelia]] Is reputed to be very good, at the end of the road.

• Blafouti

I Thea Artemis/wiki/Leros#I_.27.27Thea_Artemis.27.27eatingout I Thea Artemis [[Leros#I Thea Artemis|I Thea Artemis]] A pleasant taverna in , that serves good seafood. Closed off season.

• Xerocambos

Aloni/wiki/Leros#.27.27Aloni.27.27eatingout Aloni [[Leros#Aloni|Aloni]] Run by Lefteris and Evelyn on the W side of the cove, is particularly friendly to yachtsmen.

• Pandéli

Psaropoula/wiki/Leros#.27.27Psaropoula.27.27eatingout Psaropoula [[Leros#Psaropoula|Psaropoula]] Is yet another good restaurant.

• Partheni

Archontiko/wiki/Leros#.27.27Archontiko.27.27eatingout Archontiko [[Leros#Archontiko|Archontiko]] Is very close to the Partheni shipyard, popular with cruisers.

• Archangelos

To Stigma/wiki/Leros#.27.27To_Stigma.27.27eatingout To Stigma [[Leros#To Stigma|To Stigma]] A taverna on the island of Archangelos, good food.

Transportation

There are daily flights and ferries to Athens. In the summer there is a hydrofoil service to Kos, Kalymnos, Patmos, Fourni, Lipsi, Agathonisi, and Samos.

Tourism

Matrona Fresco: Mary

Matrona Fresco: Mary

The Chapel of Ayios Isidoros

The impressively-sited Pandeli Castle

View from Pandeli Castle

The waterfront of Pandeli

Italian Fresco in Xerocambos

History

The island has been inhabited since prehistoric times. The first inhabitants were most likely Pelasgians, Lelekes, and Karians. They were followed by the Dorians who were succeeded by the Ionians from Miletus. Homer mentions Leros, together with Kalymnos, as the "Kalydian islands" and included them in his Catalogue of Ships in the Iliad.

Leros was the sacred island of Artemis. According to the Mythology, after the death of the hero Meleager (the killer of the Calydonian Boar), Artemis took pity on the sorrow of his sisters and turned them into guinea fowl and put them in her temple at Partheni.

Leros was occupied by the Persians who departed after their defeat in Salamis. During the Peloponnesian War, Leros sided with Sparta. In the Roman times, Leros and the surrounding islands were dominated by pirates. During the Byzantine times the island was part of the Samos prefecture. In 1316 AD Leros was taken by the Knights of St. John and was governed by the Duke of Naxos. From 1455 until 1527 the island was ravaged by pirates until finally it was occupied in 1527 by the Ottomans. In 1821, Leros took part in the War of Independence and became part of the new Greek state. In 1912, along with the rest of the Dodecanese, Leros fell under the Italians who held it until 1943. During this period the Italians built the town of Lakki. They were succeeded by the allied forces, mostly British. The island was then invaded by a large force of German paratroopers and many buildings were destroyed during the Battle of Leros (November 12-16, 1943). The Germans held Leros until the end of World War II, when it was united with the rest of Greece in 1948. During the terrible years of the Greek junta (1967-74) the military camp in Partheni was used as a concentration camp for political prisoners.

Music making is a long tradition in Leros. Even today one can encounter live music here with traditional instruments such as: santouri (dulcimer), tsanbouna (bagpipes), lagouto (lute), and thelyra (a small violin-like instrument). The traditional songs and dances are: the Issos Lerikos, the Sousta, the Stavrotos, the Passoumaki, and the Dance of the Broom.

For cruising yachts, the island’s principal attraction is the sheltered natural harbour of Lakki, with its two marinas and excellent anchorage off the town. There are other good anchorages around the island at Pandéli, Vromolithos, Xerocambos, Partheni, Alindas, Blafouti and the island of Archangelos just north of Leros (the latter two in settled weather only).

Places to Visit

There many nice places to visit on the island. The most imposing is the Kastro at Pandeli. The view from the castle is superb: you can see over Pandeli, Vromolithos, and Lakki. Inside the castle there is a jewel of a tiny Ecclesiastical Museum established by Bishop Nectarios of Leros, Kalymnos, and Astypalea. Like all bishops of the Dodecanese he reports to the Patriarch in Istanbul rather then the Archbishop in Athens. Also, inside the castle there is the small church of Panayia Kyra, built in 1300 AD, which has an ornately carved iconostasis and several nice frescoes.

At Ayias Annas, visit the Archaeological Museum. The museum has very attractive cases, well labeled and lit, but the exhibits are not major. Further N at Alindas (Άλινδας), on the E side of the island, there is an Ethnological Museum housed in the Bellinis Tower, a castle like mansion built by Mr. Paris Bellinis, a wealthy Lerian who made his fortune in Egypt. The whole of the second floor of the museum is dedicated to the Battle of Leros and the sinking of the Greek navy ship Olga. Other interesting displays include the rather grisly surgical equipment of the former Leros Pharmacy (the Bellinis Tower was used as a hospital during the Second World War); numerous mementoes of famous Lerians and a folklore display of local costumes and craft items.

Bellinis Tower Museum, Alindas

About two km north from Lakki there is the unique War Museum, established in a tunnel dug by the Italians while fortifying the island in preparation for WWII. The museum contains numerous relics of the occupation and of the Battle of Leros.

In Ayia Marina a small private museum housed in an old wood mill opened in 2009.

East of Partheni, over the cove of Kioura, there is the chapel of Ayia Matrona that has modern frescoes painted by the political prisoners held here at the bleak military camp during the bleak days of the junta (1997-72). Well worth a visit. Also, near Partheni just SW of the airport, there is the site of the Temple of Artemis but unfortunately not very much remains to be seen.

On the NW side of the island, at the N end of Gourna Bay there is a very picturesque Church of Ayios Isidoros built on a tiny island connected to Leros by a narrow causeway. S of Gourna Bay at Drymonas there is the interesting Church of Panaghia Gourlommata. Finally at Lakki there is the Church of Ayios Ioannes Theologos.

Friends

• Travels with S/Y Thetis Vasilis Riginos has been cruising Greek and Turkish waters for over 25 years, as well as having crossed the Atlantic. He winters his boat in Leros. He lives for 6-7 months of the year in Greece and is willing to help any fellow cruisers. Email: vasilis[AT]sy-thetis.org

Forums

List links to discussion threads on partnering forums. (see link for requirements)

Links

• Leros at the Wikipedia
• Leros at the Wikivoyage

References

See Greece.

Comments

We welcome users' contributions to the Wiki. Please click on Comments to view other users' comments, add your own personal experiences or recommend any changes to this page following your visit. Personal experiences?

Verified by

Date of member's last visit to Leros and this page's details validated:

• Oct 2001 (N Cove)
• September 2008 (Pandéli) --Istioploos
• September 2005 (NW Cove) --Istioploos
• July 2009 (Blefouti) --Atheneoflymington 14:11, 16 July 2009 (UTC)
• July 2010 (Alindas, Partheni) --Athene of Lymington 14:12, 9 July 2010 (UTC)
• August 2010 (Vromolithos) --Athene of Lymington 16:13, 7 September 2010 (UTC)
• September 2010 (Archangelos, Lakki, Pandéli, Xerocambos) --Athene of Lymington 16:45, 12 September 2010 (UTC)
• June 2011 (Vromolithos) --Istioploos
• June 2012 (Alindas) --Istioploos
• August 2012 (Xerocambos, Blefouti) --Istioploos
• May 2014 (Blefouti) --Straitshooter
• August 2016 (Lakki) --Istioploos
• May 2017 (Lakki) --Salacia 08:45, 21 May 2017 (BST) The quay in front of the customs office was taken by a small coaster leaving place for only 2 yachts
• June 2017 (Archangelos, Partheni) --Istioploos Travels with S/Y Thetis
• June 2017 (Lakki) --Splendido I sat out NW winds of 30+ knots relatively comfortably on anchor.
• July 2017 (Vromolithos) --Speedbird
• June 2018 (Lakki) --Io

Contributors to this page
Names: Istioploos, Lighthouse, Athene of Lymington, Nereus