Leros
From CruisersWiki
Leros
 (Click links for more information)
| |
 | 37°07.5′N, 26°51.1′E |
|---|---|
 | Photo gallery |
 | Local chartlet |
Leros (Λὲρος) is a fairly low island of 53 km2 and 8,000 inhabitants. It has many beautiful beaches and unspoiled villages and a wildly serrated coastline. Poor Leros, she has been downgraded for centuries. First, the name which means "dirty" and "malodorous." Then, the large psychiatric hospitals, then the terrible legacy of the very destructive Battle of Leros during the WW II when she was bombarded for over 50 days and finally invaded by the Germans in a dramatic landing. During the days of the junta Leros was a place of exile and torture housing the infamous prison of Partheni. Finally, in more recent times it has received some very bad press concerning conditions in the remaining psychiatric hospital.
The island has been inhabited since prehistoric times. The first inhabitants were most likely Pelasgians, Lelekes, and Karians. They were followed by the Dorians who were succeeded by the Ionians from Miletus. Homer mentions Leros, together with Kalymnos, as the "Kalydian islands" and included them in his Catalogue of Ships in the Iliad.
Leros was the sacred island of Artemis. According to the Mythology, after the death of the hero Meleager (the killer of the Calydonian Boar), Artemis took pity on the sorrow of his sisters and turned them into guinea fowl and put them in her temple at Partheni.
Leros was occupied by the Persians who departed after their defeat in Salamis. During the Peloponnesian War, Leros sided with Sparta. In the Roman times, Leros and the surrounding islands were dominated by pirates. During the Byzantine times the island was part of the Samos prefecture. In 1316 AD Leros was taken by the Knights of St. John and was governed by the Duke of Naxos. From 1455 until 1527 the island was ravaged by pirates until finally it was occupied in 1527 by the Ottomans. In 1821, Leros took part in the War of Independence and became part of the new Greek state. In 1912, along with the rest of the Dodecanese, Leros fell under the Italians who held it until 1943. During this period the Italians built the town of Lakki. They were succeeded by the allied forces, mostly British. The island was then invaded by a large force of German paratroopers and many buildings were destroyed during the Battle of Leros (November 12-16, 1943). The Germans held Leros until the end of World War II, when it was united with the rest of Greece in 1948. During the terrible years of the Greek junta (1967-74) the military camp in Partheni was used as a concentration camp for political prisoners.
Music making is a long tradition in Leros. Even today one can encounter live music here with traditional instruments such as: santouri (dulcimer), tsanbouna (bagpipes), lagouto (lute), and thelyra (a small violin-like instrument). The traditional songs and dances are: the Issos Lerikos, the Sousta, the Stavrotos, the Passoumaki, and the Dance of the Broom.
For cruising yachts, the island’s principal attraction is the sheltered natural harbour of Lakki, with its two marinas and excellent anchorage off the town. There are other good anchorages around the island at Pandéli, Vromolithos, Xerocambos, Partheni, Alindas, Blafouti and the island of Archangelos just north of Leros (the latter two in settled weather only).
Charts
Click for larger view
- BA
- 2682 Kolpos Patalion to Nisos Nisiros
- 3926 Lero island and approaches
- Imray-Tetra
- G34 Southern Cyclades
- NIMA
- 54400 Samos to Rodhos
- Greek
- 451 Leros to Rhodos
Radio Nets
Also see Cruiser's Nets
- Coast Guard - VHF channel 12
- Olympia Radio - channel 23 at the W of the island; no good signal on the S and E sides
Weather
See Aegean Sea.
The approaches to Leros are straightforward, most of the offshore islets being steep-to. If approaching the main harbour of Lakki from the north, however, be sure to avoid the group of above-water rocks extending about half a mile offshore just NW of the entrance.
Danger: With a strong meltemi there are violent gusts when entering the bays of Lakki and Alindas. Also, with strong southerlies there are gusts and large swells in the bay of Lakki.
Check-in facilities
See Marinas & Yacht Clubs below.
Ports and Popular Stops
Ports
Lakki
37°07.5′N, 26°51.1′E
This is the main harbor of the island. It is located on the W side of the island. Lakki (Λακκί) is a deep inlet and it is the largest harbor of the Dodecanese, affording all-round protection. On the NW side of the harbor there is small marina operated by Agmar see below.
On the E side there is the Evros shipyard and marina, See Marinas & Yacht Clubs below.
It is possible for a few yachts to anchor moor in front of the prominent old customs building, about 100 metres east of the Agmar Marina berths and clear of the alongside coastguard berth. Shelter is excellent here from the prevailing winds.
Finally, it is possible to anchor off in front of the town in depths of 5.0 – 6.0 metres. There may be some uncomfortable swell but with northerlies it is safe. The bottom is mud and provides good holding.
Lakki is an unusual town, not at all what one would expect from a Greek island capital. No narrow, cobbled streets and dazzlingly white buildings here, but rather broad, sweeping boulevards lined with monumental architecture from the days when Lakki was an Italian-owned showpiece from the Mussolini era. It’s a style of architecture that doesn’t appeal to everyone today, although one hopes its day will come before the remaining unrestored buildings are allowed to crumble into dust. Meanwhile, it reminds one of a De Chirico painting.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- July 2010 --Athene of Lymington 11:43, 6 July 2010 (UTC)
- August 2010 --Istioploos
 Lakki Marina |
 Quay of Lakki Marina |
Pandéli
Click for larger view
37°08.98′N, 26°51.77′E
Pandéli (Παντέλι) or Panali is a small harbor on the E side of the island and, while very attractive, is normally full of fishing boats. At the harbour entrance (July 2009) is a sign indicating that the harbour is for fishing boats only, so if you visit here it would be wise to anchor off in the bay or go stern-to the rocky headland at Vromolithos, the adjoining bay, to avoid any possible confrontation.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- September 2008 --Istioploos
- July 2010 --Athene of Lymington 14:12, 9 July 2010 (UTC)
 Pandéli & Vromolithos as seen from Kastro |
 The harbour and anchorage at Pandeli |
 Pandeli harbour |
Anchorages
Xerocambos
Click for larger view
37°06.45′N, 26°52.3′E
Xerocambos (Ξηρόκαμπος) or Xirocambos is a very attractive and large anchorage on the S side of the island. It affords very good protection from the meltemi (although gusts enter the bay) but it is exposed to the S. Around fourteen moorings have been laid in the bay by the tavernas ashore and, if you use one, you will be expected to dine at the taverna concerned. The yellow ones belong to the Aloni Taverna in the centre of the beach (run by Lefteris and Evelyn), which is particularly friendly to yachtsmen. The orange ones belong to the white and blue painted To Kuma Taverna on the east side of the cove. If anchoring, look for a spot of sand and anchor in 5-6 m (the bottom is mostly weed and holding is not always very good). Once the anchor holds, however, the cove is very secure. It is about one hour walk to Lakki which is also served by bus.
About an hour walk up the ridge on the E side of Xerocambos there is an abandoned WW II Italian house with wall frescoes painted by the Italian soldiers garrisoned there.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- August 2009 --Istioploos
- July 2010 --Athene of Lymington 13:38, 10 July 2010 (UTC)
 Xerocambos from Paliokastro |
 Xerocambos anchorage |
 Italian Fresco |
Vromolithos
37°08.8′N, 26°51.7′E
Vromolithos (Βρωμόλιθος) is a small anchorage on the SE side of the island, just west of Pandeli, with room for several yachts to anchor in the lee of the headland. Anchor in 8-12 metres just off the headland and take a long line back to the rocks. This position offers good protection from the meltemi. The swimming area off the beach at Vromolithos is buoyed and yachts wishing to swing to their anchor have to drop a long way out, where the protection is less good. The Paradiso Taverna above the beach does a boiled octopus to die for and Dimitris O Karaflas taverna on top of the headland offers excellent food at sensible prices and is invariably packed with locals.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- September 2008 --Istioploos
- July 2009 --Atheneoflymington 14:28, 16 July 2009 (UTC)
Alindas
37°10′N, 26°50.4′E
´Alindas (Άλινδας) or Alinda is a large bay on the east coast of Leros which offers better protection than would at first appear from the meltemi. Anchor off the beach at the NW end of the bay in 4-5 metres, clear of the numerous small craft moorings, where there is little swell and few gusts in winds up to 6/7 Beaufort (the adjacent photo was taken during a force 7 meltemi). The bottom is sand and rock and you may need more than one attempt to get your anchor to hold. Nevertheless, Alinda is an attractive spot with some good tavernas ashore including the good Italian restaurant da Giusi. There is also an interesting folklore/WW II museum in a nicely maintained private mansion, the Bellinis Tower.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- July 2009--Atheneoflymington 13:05, 15 July 2009 (UTC)
- August 2009 --Istioploos
- July 2010 --Athene of Lymington 14:12, 9 July 2010 (UTC)
Blafouti
37°11.6′N, 26°49.2′E - Chartlet
Blafouti (Μπλαφούτι) or Blefoutis or Plakouti is an attractive cove on the NE side of the island. It is reasonably well protected from the meltemi (though shelter is not as good as at Partheni) and in winds from W through to SE. The most sheltered, westerly, side of the anchorage is mostly taken up with small boat moorings and yachts therefore need to anchor closer to the middle of the cove. The bottom is sand and weed, not always good holding. There is a small taverna ashore, I Thea Artemis, which serves good fish.
Danger: There are several reefs at the entrance to the cove. Enter from the E of the reef.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- October 2007 --Istioploos
- July 2009 --Atheneoflymington 14:11, 16 July 2009 (UTC)
Partheni
37°11.5′N, 26°48.3′E
Partheni (Παρθένι) is a large landlocked bay on the N side of the island. There is a naval installation on the W side of the bay and a military camp to the SE. Agmar ( 37°11.31′N, 26°48.02′E) operates a shipyard with a 70 ton travel lift; for details see below. Agmar maintains four mooring buoys in front of its facilities, which clients can use temporarily. The airport is only 100 metres away.
There is excellent protection on the north side of the inner cove at the eastern end of the bay. Anchor clear of the numerous moorings on the south side of the cove and the small fish farm to the northwest. Even in a strong meltemi your boat is safe here. However, the setting is not very attractive and there is nothing in the way of facilities. The nearest taverna is opposite the airport some two kilometres away. Added to this is the presence of the military camp, the site of the notorious Partheni prison where many political prisoners were tortured during the days of the junta.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- July 2010 --Athene of Lymington 14:12, 9 July 2010 (UTC)
- August 2010 --Istioploos
Click for larger view
N Cove
37°12.1′N, 26°47.9′E
This is a small pleasant cove just N of Partheni. The cove is somewhat exposed to the meltemi but in settled weather it a good place to stop for a swim. Good holding at 6 m.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- October 2001 --Istioploos
NW Cove
37°11.5′N, 26°46.6′E
While this cove is well protected from the S winds, it is not as good an anchorage as it looks because it is deep and then it gets shallow very quickly and at depths of 3-5 m there is lot of weed with very few patches of sand so the anchor may not hold well here.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- September 2005 --Istioploos
Marinas & Yacht Clubs
Yacht Services and Repairs
Marine Stores
- Agmar Shipyard has a well stocked chandlery
- There is also a store in Lakki, and another in Ayia Marina, both cater mostly to fisherman
Yacht Services/Repairs/Yards
Agmar Shipyard
Agmar ( 37°11.5′N, 26°48′E) operates a shipyard in Partheni with a 70 ton travel-lift and room to store over 250 yachts on the hard. They perform all major repairs and are staffed by skilled technicians. The yard has WCs, showers and a self-service laundry as well as a sail-washing area and a remarkably well-stocked chandlery. Agmar maintains four moorings in front of their facilities which their clients can use temporarily.
The nearby airport is five minutes on foot and the yard will take you to and pick you up from the airport if necessary.
Tel. +30 2470 26 009 Email
I have wintered my boat here since 2000 and have nothing but praise for Mr. Angelos Gaitanides, the manager/owner, and his helpful staff. --Istioploos 
Evros Boatyard
Evros Boatyard located near Lakki provides maintenance, repairs, and spare parts.
Fuel, Water, & Electricity
- Fuel
- is delivered by mini-truck
- Water
- is available on the quay of the Agmar Lakki Marina, Evros Leros Marina, and at the Agmar Shipyard at Partheni. However, in all places the water can be brackish but you can have spring water delivered by a mini-truck. Call +30 6944 899 242, Costas.
- Electricity
- is available on the quay of the Agmar Lakki Marina, Evros Leros Marina, and at the Agmar Shipyard at Partheni
Offshore Islands
Archangelos
37°11.9′N, 26°46.3′E
Archangelos (Αρχάγγελος) is a small island about 0.5 nm N of Partheni. There are two coves on the S side of the island. The E cove is dominated by a fish farm but the W cove is still a pleasant anchorage. Anchor over a patch of sand in 5.0 metres. Good shelter and holding.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:
- August 2010 --Istioploos
Click for larger view
Tourism and Things to do Ashore
 Matrona Fresco: Mary Click for larger view |
 Matrona Fresco: Mary Click for larger view |
 The Chapel of Ayios Isidoros Click for larger view |
 The impressively-sited Pandeli Castle Click for larger view |
 View from Pandeli Castle Click for larger view |
 The waterfront of Pandeli Click for larger view |
Tourism
There many nice places to visit on the island. The most imposing is the Kastro at Pandeli. The view from the castle is superb: you can see over Pandeli, Vromolithos, and Lakki. Inside the castle there is a jewel of a tiny Ecclesiastical Museum established by Bishop Nectarios of Leros, Kalymnos, and Astypalea. Like all bishops of the Dodecanese he reports to the Patriarch in Istanbul rather then the Archbishop in Athens. Also, inside the castle there is the small church of Panayia Kyra, built in 1300 AD, which has an ornately carved iconostasis and several nice frescoes.
At Ayias Annas, visit the Archaeological Museum. The museum has very attractive cases, well labeled and lit, but the exhibits are not major. Further N at Alindas (Άλινδας), on the E side of the island, there is an Ethnological Museum housed in the Bellinis Tower, a castle like mansion built by Mr. Paris Bellinis, a wealthy Lerian who made his fortune in Egypt. The whole of the second floor of the museum is dedicated to the Battle of Leros and the sinking of the Greek navy ship Olga. Other interesting displays include the rather grisly surgical equipment of the former Leros Pharmacy (the Bellinis Tower was used as a hospital during the Second World War); numerous mementoes of famous Lerians and a folklore display of local costumes and craft items.
About two km north from Lakki there is the unique War Museum, established in a tunnel dug by the Italians while fortifying the island in preparation for WWII. The museum contains numerous relics of the occupation and of the Battle of Leros.
In Ayia Marina a small private museum housed in an old wood mill opened in 2009.
East of Partheni, over the cove of Kioura, there is the chapel of Ayia Matrona that has modern frescoes painted by the political prisoners held here at the bleak military camp during the bleak days of the junta (1997-72). Well worth a visit. Also, near Partheni just SW of the airport, there is the site of the Temple of Artemis but unfortunately not very much remains to be seen.
On the NW side of the island, at the N end of Gourna Bay there is a very picturesque Church of Ayios Isidoros built on a tiny island connected to Leros by a narrow causeway. S of Gourna Bay at Drymonas there is the interesting Church of Panaghia Gourlommata. Finally at Lakki there is the Church of Ayios Ioannes Theologos.
Grocery & Supply Stores
Note: all shops in Lakki (except the large supermarkets) close at 1330 on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The supermarkets are closed on Sundays.
- There are two supermarkets at Lakki. The larger of which is Spanos. If you buy large quantities of groceries, both stores will deliver it to the marina or the shipyard
- The bakery next to the Post Office in Lakki has very good bread
- Camping Gaz is available at the Agmar Shipyard chandlery
Eateries
In general the food is good in Leros.
- Some of the best cooking in the island is to be found at Dimitris o Karaflas (tel. +30 22470 25626) at the top of the hill at the north end of Vromolithos beach (the views here are as impressive as the food - try the fillets of perch baked in the oven). You can anchor in the bay of Vromolithos below.
- If you want Italian food, there is a very good restaurant da Giusi e Marcello (tel. +30 22470 24888) run by an Italian couple in Alindas, it is open on only on Fridays and Saturdays for dinner and on Sundays for lunch
- At Lakki you can eat well at the Petrino Restaurant (next to the post office).
- Good food at Frangos in Vromolithos
- In Ayia Marina the Mylos has excellent sea food
- In Alindas try the Finikas by the sea and To Steki tou Dimitri further along, past the road to the airport
- Also in Alindas, Varelia, at the end of the road, is reputed to be very good
- In Blafouti there is a pleasant taverna, I Thea Artemis, that serves good seafood
- In the W side of Xerocambos the Aloni (Lefteris and Evelyn) is particularly friendly to yachtsmen
- Another good restaurant is the Psaropoula at Pandéli
Internet/WiFi
- Good mobile phone signal
- Agmar provides free WiFi in both its shipyard in Partheni and its marina in Lakki
Laundry
- Token operated washing machines at the Agmar Lakki Marina and at the Agmar Shipyard at Partheni
- There is a dry cleaner in Lakki that also does laundry
Motorbike & Car Rentals
- Many rental places at Plátanos and at Lakki. Giannakos (on the road north out of Lakki) is good for scooter rentals.
- Pagonis tel. +30 2240 25 831 or +30 6936 259 819 will deliver and pick up a motorbike to your boat
Garbage Disposal
There are bins around the harbors and in several anchorages.
Transportation
There are daily flights and ferries to Athens. In the summer there is a hydrofoil service to Kos, Kalymnos, Patmos, Fourni, Lipsi, Agathonisi, and Samos.
Routes/Passages To/From
- Passages between Athens Region and Samos - Kusadasi
- N - S Passages in East Aegean
- Cruising the Dodechanese Islands
Cruiser's Friends
- Travels with S/Y Thetis Vasilis Riginos has been cruising Greek and Turkish waters for over 25 years, as well as having crossed the Atlantic. He winters his boat in Leros. He lives for 6-7 months of the year in Greece and is willing to help any fellow cruisers. Email: vasilis[AT]sy-thetis.org
Forum Discussions
List links to discussion threads on the Cruiser Log Forum
External Links
- Leros (Wikipedia)
References & Publications
See Greece.
Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)
See individual ports in this page.
Personal Notes
Personal experiences?
| |
|---|
| | HOMEPAGE | Wiki Contents | Mediterranean | Aegean Sea | Greece | Leros | |
.
