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=== Practice below here  ===
=== Practice below here  ===
 +
==Cruising the island groups: the Southern Aegean==
 +
===The Cyclades===
 +
=====The sea area defined by the Argosaronic (aka Gulf of Athens) to the West and the Dodecanese to the East=====
 +
 +
::Weather & sailing : Acceleration funnel between the Balkanic and Turkish landmasses, it features in summer a steep pressure gradient between the western Mediterranean high and the heat low over Asia, generating a strong northerly air flow known as Meltemi (Etesian or yearly wind). In winter southerlies prevail but gales may blow from any quadrant.
 +
Local specifics: without the soothing Meltemi (which rarely exceeds 35 knots) heat would rapidly become scorching.  What one must bear in mind is that moderate winds may last for a week followed by calms. Strongest Meltemi seldom howls for more than a day or two, allowing an experienced skipper to anticipate the blow (by monitoring the persistance of the western Mediterranean  High pressure) and shape accordingly his itinerary. The brief fetch between the islands is responsible for very steep, choppy sea conditions which dramatically reduce most boats’ability to sustain a close hauled course. Using skiing terminology, the CyClades are the “black slope” of Greece’s sailing resorts.
 +
:Best avoid: a green horn would typically plan an over ambitious route and overlook the hefty acceleration zones. With Meltemi conditions, stay away from lee shores, particularly the south coasts of Tinos, Andros and the east coast of Amorgos.
 +
 +
::The island group being arranged in a circle (hence it’s name) and winds having a NE slant in the West and a NW slant in the East, it is feasible to island hop, circumnavigating clockwise without having to tack! (see charter itinerary 1 [http://www.archipelclub.com/en/catamaran-charter-greece/itineraries-in-the-greek-islands.html])
 +
You may also sail to the Dodecanese and back following the same principles (see charter itinerary 5 [http://www.archipelclub.com/en/catamaran-charter-greece/itineraries-in-the-greek-islands.html])
 +
 +
::Globally, the best seasons are late spring (the time of flowers) and automn, when the weather is at its mildest, with more fluctuating winds, authentic island life and less crowds.
 +
 +
::Scenery: This is postcard Greece at its best: cloudless skies, crystal clear waters, small barren islands dotted with tufts of dry herbs, immaculate white hamlets perched on hill sides, wind and more wind!
 +
 +
::Must see: Delos’ archeological site, Ermoupolis’ neoclassical town, Sifnos’ and Amorgos’ hills and villages, Santorini’s caldera, Sikinos and Folegandros.
 +
 +
::Must savor: cherry tomatoes, capers, white eggplants and split peas (fava) from Santorini, hard cheeses (graviera) from Naxos, powerful soft cheeses (kopanisti) and air-cured pork filet (lounza) from Syros, Tinos and Mykonos, goat cheese aged in wine (manoura)  and almond pastries from Sifnos, Turkish delights and nougats from Syros. Santorini wines are now world famous, visit the wineries and sample wines made from ancient indigenous cultivars such as Asyrtiko, Aidani, Athiri (whites), Mandilaria and Mavrotragano (reds) . Equally excellent are Paros’ reds made from Mandilaria, Monemvasia (the famous Malmsey) and Aidani. While in Paros, sample the local (grappa) Souma and in Naxos the Kitron (citron) liqueur. 
 +
Read notes regarding wines in the Cyclades.
 +
 +
::On either side of the Cyclades but less under the influence of the summer winds lie the Argo-Saronic Gulf and the Dodecanese islands.
 +
 +
===The Argosaronic islands===
 +
::aka the Gulf of Athens, used to be a cruising gem, until the eighties when it became a wider superb of sprawling Athens. Moderate winds, short sailing distances between lovely anchorages and fishing ports, the purple backdrop of the Peloponese mountains, it was like a dream come true.  With progress of motorways, fast ferries and hydrofoils, all the delightful locations became quickly accessible and subject to a real estate boom. Spilling every weekend from Athens’ 9–odd marinas, hundreds of pleasure craft are saturating all the small ports. Of course world heritage sites like Hydra, Spetsai. Navplion and Monemvassia (Malmsey of lore) were preserved thanks to stringent building regulations and remain heavenly destinations of a tranquil cruise. Being close to Athens has also its advantages, good infrastucture, access to parts and services. Cruisers will appreciate well sheltered and free anchorages at Poros and Porto Heli.
 +
 +
::Weather & sailing : Meltemi is mainly beeen felt during summer at the eastern approaches, along the Sounion-Hydra-Monemvassia axis. Further West thermal influx takes over with its switch fom E-ESE during daytime to WNW at night time. The arrival of high pressure ridge with strong northwesterlies in the Ionian may generate gale force westerlies around the eastern Peloponese, tumbling down the steep mountains at night. These occasional blows affect an area reaching the western Kyklades.
 +
 +
::Scenery: coastal sailing along the Eastern Peloponese with its steep mountains embracing fertile, well watered valleys. Islands are mostly dry but boast wonderfully set villages. Enjoy wonderful sunsets revealing mountain chains bathing in purple light.
 +
 +
::Must see:  Epidaurus classical theater, privateer’s harbour towns of Hydra, Spetsai and Poros, lovely neoclassical city of Navplion with nearby bronze age Tyrins & Mykinai, the walled medieval city of Monemvassia.
 +
 +
::Must savor: Finest olive oil (very neutral in taste) fom Kranidi, citrus fruit from Navplion and Troizoen (Galatas), superb VQPRD dry reds (Agiorgitiko) from Nemea and dry but fruity whites (Moschofilero, an indigenous Blanc de Gris) from Mantineia. Finally you may occasinally encounter the real retsina, a primitive wine, from Savatiano cultivars and only –please- drawn from wooden barrels!
 +
Among the specialty dishes of the area do not miss “Spetsiota” (baked grouper with herbs and wine), stewed aubergines, baked artichokes (anginares) or “kokoras me hylopites” (rooster and red wine stew, served with home made pasta).
 +
 +
===The Dodecanese===
 +
Note: You will find mentions of Samos, which does not belong administratively to the island group, but certainly does cruisingwise!
 +
 +
::12 island chain along the turkish coast, Greece’s southeasternmost archipelago has long shone with its cultural wealth and proximity to Asia Minors natural ressources.
 +
Apart from their own appeals, the largest islands boast international airports bringing closer the Turkish coast with its sheltered waters and numerous marinas. However, because of Schengen agreements, plying back and forth between Greece and Turkey is not convenient due to red tape. In practice, when you charter a boat in Greece you have to stay in the Greek islands and when you charter out of a turkish base you are restricted to the coast. Minor local amendments have been made to this rule, in Symi, Kastellorizon and Datca where one may spend up to 2 nights in”transit”.
 +
 +
::Weather & sailing : Summer meltemi blows mainly from the Northwest, backing to the West in the afternoon and veering to the Northeast at night. Thermal influence and variation is at it strongest close to the asian continent. The summer wind is at its strongest near the western tips of the large islands and funnelling with great ardour in the straights between Rhodos & Karpathos as well Samos & Ikaria. In spring and fall a Low Pressure system approaching the Balkan peninsula may generate hefty South-easterlies blowing through the channels between the island chain and the continent
 +
:While cruising in summer, the greatest hurdle consists at beating from Rhodes to Kos, the stretch being directly up wind. The riddle is solved by making best use of the thermal variation by sailing in a westerly direction at night and during the morning (when the wind is from a NNE direction) while from midday till the evening favor a northeasterly course (when the wind has a WNW slant). It is thus feasible to sail northwards, but not necessarily easy, as local geography complicates the task by generating further wind variations.
 +
:A similar strategy may be applied when trying to sail across the Aegean, through the Kyklades: sail northwards in the afternoon till reaching Patmos. Then, once the night has fallen, the wind abated and veered to the NNE, shape a Westerly course. Thus, one may easily reach Mykonos by sun rise. On the other hand if sailing only in daylight, departing from Patmos, one would only fetch Amorgos, as Asia minor’s thermal influence corrupts the Meltemi till Naxos’ East coast. (Following link # 1 for our 2 weeks itinerary from Paros to Paros via the Dodecanese)
 +
 +
::Scenery / Must see : the most interesting islands are (as usual) the least known and the smallest : Kastelorizon (Megisti), Halki, Symi, Nisyros, Arki and Gaidaros (Agathonisi). Surrounded by turquoise waters, these islands are generally dry and rocky, dotted with olive trees with the occasional goat herds munching on dry bushes. The architecture consists of a happy mix from cycladic and Neoclassical styles with the odd italian Art Deco public building thrown in.
 +
The largest islands offer a good level of services with chandleries, marinas and airports. Near fertile coastal plains, Rhodos’ medieval town, magnificent Lindos,  the cycladic Hora topped by its monastic fortress of Patmos nor theold town harbour of Pythagorion should not be missed.
 +
 +
::Must savor: Wines of Rhodos (from Athiri, Mandilaria & Moschato Aspro cultivars - CAIR & Emery cellars are worth a visit) and the extraordinary sweet Muscat Blanc (Moschato Aspro, VLDQS. Cellars of the local coop winery ) of Samos, aged in oak casks and worth a good Sauternes. Sample in late spring, when milk is at its tastiest, the goat cheese pastries (sweet or salty poungia). In Rhodos try fresh home made pasta (Hylopites) and onion fritters (Pitaroudia).
 +
 +
==The Northern Aegean==
 +
::Past the northern Cyclades chain (Euboea – Samos axis) there’s a definite climatic change. If summer winds are somehow weaker,  the seasonal variation is well marked with increased rainfall and harsher winters. It’s Balkan weather and even the sky has a different hue. The area is divided in 2 cruising zones which bear some similarities, although the westernmost (aka Northern Sporades) is much more developped and receives alot of foreign visitors, whereas the eastermost island group is more numerous, more spread out, less visited (much further away from Athens) representing a quasi virgin cruising territory.
 +
===The Northern Sporades===
 +
::Backed by the spectacular mountain ranges of Eubea and Pelion (Centaurs’ mythical homeland) the Sporades island group belongs to the top tourist destinatons in Greece, boasting moderate winds, mild temperatures, lovely villages and pine groves reaching the beachfront.
 +
:The quasi unhinhabited island of Kyra Panaghia aswell as some adjacent islets constitute a unique natural park for the endangered mediterranean monk seal (Monachus Monachus)
 +
 +
::Weather & sailing : a moderate northerly (Meltemi “light”) is predominant in summer, freshening near Skyros.  Thunderstorms or downpours are not uncommon on calm days.
 +
 +
::Scenery / Must see : Among Greece’s top ten island destinations Skopelos should not be missed! Visit the Choras (island capitals) of Skopelos and Skyros. Moor in wonderful, sheltered coves such as Panormos, Elios (Klima), Agios Petros and Planitis (at Kyra Panaghia).
 +
:Architecture carries influence from nearby Pelion, where one may find some respite when tourist hordes swamp Skiathos.
 +
 +
::Must savor: delicious tiny apples (firikia) from Pelion orchards, twisted goatcheese puffs (strifti tyropita), stuffed vine leaves (yaprakia) as well as yews’milk cheeses from Skyros, lamb and herbs fricassé in Skopelos, seafood in Alonissos.
 +
Sample local grappa (tsipouro) young or aged (palaiomeno) in casks or even anis flavored (Glykanisso). While there are no great local wines, the nearby mainland has some excellent VQPRD such as Anghialos’ dry whites (from Rodhitis & Savatiano cultivars) and superb reds from Rapsani (from Xynomavro & Stavroto cultivars)
 +
===The Eastern Sporades===
 +
:Note: You will find mentions of Ikaria, which doesnot belong administratively, to the island group, but certainly does cruisingwise!
 +
::Weather & sailing : a moderate northerly (Meltemi “light”) is predominant in summer, freshening along the Dardanelles to Mykonos axis. Thunderstorms or downpours are not uncommon on calm days. Patches of radiation fog may occur in spring during southerly winds. Winters are wet, cold and often stormy.
 +
 +
::Scenery / Must see : At last a tranquil mediterranean summer cruising area!
 +
An archipelago consisting of quite large islands and a handfull tiny ones caracterized by their  volcanic past  with its number of very large enclosed bays (almost inland seas!) and its dry scenery (except on parts of Lesvos). The towns’ architecture is defined by a pleasant mix of Neoclassical and Asia Minor styles reminiscent of a prosperous past.
 +
Ikaria’s fascinating hinterland is best explored from the ports of Loutra or Evdhilos. In Chios, the small ports of Emborio, Lithi, Volissos or Kardamila will allow you to experience the medieval atmosphere of Mesta and Pirghi or renaissance in Kampos. Further north, Lesvos, by far the vastest, boasts a wide variety of sceneries: fossililized forest in Sigri, wooded coastline around Sykaminea, 11 million olive trees covering the center, chestnut forest near Aghiassos, pretty neoclassical town of Mytilini and a lovely small town topped by a turkish castle in Molyvos (Mythimna). There are also 2 very interesting art museums to explore. Finally in Lemnos, do not miss the visit of Myrina’s Byzantine town and castle nor its wine cellars!
 +
 +
::Must savor: Mastic unique to southern Chios only (from Pistacia lentiscus) famous for its medicinal properties (Mastic contains antioxidants, and also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. It may cure peptic ulcers by killing Helicobacter pylori bacteria and absorbs cholesterol, thus easing high blood pressure and reduces the risk of heart attacks, chewing mastic also reduces oral bacteria levels) and unique taste is found in a great variety of preparations, cakes and drinks!
 +
:Lesvos has superb olive oil and a great variety of anis flavoured spirits, world famous Ouzo, as well as excellent yews’milk cheeses matured in olive oil (Ladotyri). Sandy and and wind swept Lemnos is higly suitable for the Muscat d’Alexandrie cultivar and one should definitively indulge in the fine white wines made there in either fruity dry or smooth and sweet varieties to accompany local fish or goat dishes. Red wine buffs will have to fall back on the nearest mainland cultivars of Xynomavro and Limnio from VDQRS Amyndaio, Naoussa, Goumenissa, Ossa or the Cabernet Sauvignon Cotes de Meliton (Domaine Porto Carras winery organized by Professeur Peynaud & French oenologist M. Mazuric) from Chalkidiki.
 +
 +
 +
=====Finally, there are also some faraway, difficult to access destinations like Kassos & Karpathos, Crete, Kythira & Antikythira, Thassos & Samothraki : for the bravest only=====
 +
 +
==Notes==
 +
:: Itineraries
 +
: 1 [http://www.archipelclub.com/en/catamaran-charter-greece/itineraries-in-the-greek-islands.html]
 +
: 2 [http://www.archipelclub.com/en/catamaran-charter-greece/itineraries-in-the-greek-islands.html]
 +
 +
::Wine
 +
Greece: the wine connoisseur’s new frontier?
 +
“No poem was ever written by a waterdrinker” Homer, Greek epic poet, (8 Century BC).
 +
:For most of Rome's winemaking history, Greek wine was the most highly prized with domestic Roman wine fetching far lower prices while in medieval times, malmseys, cretans or muscats, among others, were the fabled drinks of European gentry.
 +
Forget bottled “retsina” and uninspiring tastes. Greece is not any more an old-fashioned producer stuck in the middle ages. After several centuries of neglect through foreign occupation, strife and diseases, the 400-odd genuine greek cultivars are striking back.
 +
:The new generation of greek winemakers have all studied oenology abroad (from France and South Africa to California) bringing in the latest know-how of wine making and adapting them to the amazing variety of local ancient grapes.
 +
The result: 109 rated wines, 29 VQPRD of which 15 declared outstanding by Robert Parker’s expert team. And the best piece of news is that all these wines are made from indigenous varieties.
 +
In the Cyclades you have the opportunity to sail to some of the finest, most ancient and intriguing cultivars: Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani and Mandilaria in Santorini, Monemvasia (Malmsey), Asyrtiko, Savatiano and  Mandilaria  in Paros. On all the other islands you will of course taste some of the less polished local wines as well as fiery tsipouro/raki (grappa) but you will undoubtly be able to sample some of the other great wines Greece has on offer. To name but a few, from the Peloponnese, the balanced yet spicy Moschofilero (indigenous Blanc de Gris) from Mantineia, the dry red Agiorghitiko Nemeas or the historic fortified sweet red wine Mavrodafni from Patras. From Samos the amazing, classical sweet white Moschato Aspro. From northern Greece, the incredible Muscat d’Alexandrie coming in both fruity-dry and semi sweet varieties from the island of Lemnos. From Lower Olympus (Rapsani) Xynomavro, Stavroto and Krasato or Macedonian great red blends based on unique Xynomavro and Limnio.

Revision as of 06:09, 5 August 2013

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Practice below here

Cruising the island groups: the Southern Aegean

The Cyclades

The sea area defined by the Argosaronic (aka Gulf of Athens) to the West and the Dodecanese to the East
Weather & sailing : Acceleration funnel between the Balkanic and Turkish landmasses, it features in summer a steep pressure gradient between the western Mediterranean high and the heat low over Asia, generating a strong northerly air flow known as Meltemi (Etesian or yearly wind). In winter southerlies prevail but gales may blow from any quadrant.

Local specifics: without the soothing Meltemi (which rarely exceeds 35 knots) heat would rapidly become scorching. What one must bear in mind is that moderate winds may last for a week followed by calms. Strongest Meltemi seldom howls for more than a day or two, allowing an experienced skipper to anticipate the blow (by monitoring the persistance of the western Mediterranean High pressure) and shape accordingly his itinerary. The brief fetch between the islands is responsible for very steep, choppy sea conditions which dramatically reduce most boats’ability to sustain a close hauled course. Using skiing terminology, the CyClades are the “black slope” of Greece’s sailing resorts.

Best avoid: a green horn would typically plan an over ambitious route and overlook the hefty acceleration zones. With Meltemi conditions, stay away from lee shores, particularly the south coasts of Tinos, Andros and the east coast of Amorgos.
The island group being arranged in a circle (hence it’s name) and winds having a NE slant in the West and a NW slant in the East, it is feasible to island hop, circumnavigating clockwise without having to tack! (see charter itinerary 1 [1])

You may also sail to the Dodecanese and back following the same principles (see charter itinerary 5 [2])

Globally, the best seasons are late spring (the time of flowers) and automn, when the weather is at its mildest, with more fluctuating winds, authentic island life and less crowds.
Scenery: This is postcard Greece at its best: cloudless skies, crystal clear waters, small barren islands dotted with tufts of dry herbs, immaculate white hamlets perched on hill sides, wind and more wind!
Must see: Delos’ archeological site, Ermoupolis’ neoclassical town, Sifnos’ and Amorgos’ hills and villages, Santorini’s caldera, Sikinos and Folegandros.
Must savor: cherry tomatoes, capers, white eggplants and split peas (fava) from Santorini, hard cheeses (graviera) from Naxos, powerful soft cheeses (kopanisti) and air-cured pork filet (lounza) from Syros, Tinos and Mykonos, goat cheese aged in wine (manoura) and almond pastries from Sifnos, Turkish delights and nougats from Syros. Santorini wines are now world famous, visit the wineries and sample wines made from ancient indigenous cultivars such as Asyrtiko, Aidani, Athiri (whites), Mandilaria and Mavrotragano (reds) . Equally excellent are Paros’ reds made from Mandilaria, Monemvasia (the famous Malmsey) and Aidani. While in Paros, sample the local (grappa) Souma and in Naxos the Kitron (citron) liqueur.

Read notes regarding wines in the Cyclades.

On either side of the Cyclades but less under the influence of the summer winds lie the Argo-Saronic Gulf and the Dodecanese islands.

The Argosaronic islands

aka the Gulf of Athens, used to be a cruising gem, until the eighties when it became a wider superb of sprawling Athens. Moderate winds, short sailing distances between lovely anchorages and fishing ports, the purple backdrop of the Peloponese mountains, it was like a dream come true. With progress of motorways, fast ferries and hydrofoils, all the delightful locations became quickly accessible and subject to a real estate boom. Spilling every weekend from Athens’ 9–odd marinas, hundreds of pleasure craft are saturating all the small ports. Of course world heritage sites like Hydra, Spetsai. Navplion and Monemvassia (Malmsey of lore) were preserved thanks to stringent building regulations and remain heavenly destinations of a tranquil cruise. Being close to Athens has also its advantages, good infrastucture, access to parts and services. Cruisers will appreciate well sheltered and free anchorages at Poros and Porto Heli.
Weather & sailing : Meltemi is mainly beeen felt during summer at the eastern approaches, along the Sounion-Hydra-Monemvassia axis. Further West thermal influx takes over with its switch fom E-ESE during daytime to WNW at night time. The arrival of high pressure ridge with strong northwesterlies in the Ionian may generate gale force westerlies around the eastern Peloponese, tumbling down the steep mountains at night. These occasional blows affect an area reaching the western Kyklades.
Scenery: coastal sailing along the Eastern Peloponese with its steep mountains embracing fertile, well watered valleys. Islands are mostly dry but boast wonderfully set villages. Enjoy wonderful sunsets revealing mountain chains bathing in purple light.
Must see: Epidaurus classical theater, privateer’s harbour towns of Hydra, Spetsai and Poros, lovely neoclassical city of Navplion with nearby bronze age Tyrins & Mykinai, the walled medieval city of Monemvassia.
Must savor: Finest olive oil (very neutral in taste) fom Kranidi, citrus fruit from Navplion and Troizoen (Galatas), superb VQPRD dry reds (Agiorgitiko) from Nemea and dry but fruity whites (Moschofilero, an indigenous Blanc de Gris) from Mantineia. Finally you may occasinally encounter the real retsina, a primitive wine, from Savatiano cultivars and only –please- drawn from wooden barrels!

Among the specialty dishes of the area do not miss “Spetsiota” (baked grouper with herbs and wine), stewed aubergines, baked artichokes (anginares) or “kokoras me hylopites” (rooster and red wine stew, served with home made pasta).

The Dodecanese

Note: You will find mentions of Samos, which does not belong administratively to the island group, but certainly does cruisingwise!

12 island chain along the turkish coast, Greece’s southeasternmost archipelago has long shone with its cultural wealth and proximity to Asia Minors natural ressources.

Apart from their own appeals, the largest islands boast international airports bringing closer the Turkish coast with its sheltered waters and numerous marinas. However, because of Schengen agreements, plying back and forth between Greece and Turkey is not convenient due to red tape. In practice, when you charter a boat in Greece you have to stay in the Greek islands and when you charter out of a turkish base you are restricted to the coast. Minor local amendments have been made to this rule, in Symi, Kastellorizon and Datca where one may spend up to 2 nights in”transit”.

Weather & sailing : Summer meltemi blows mainly from the Northwest, backing to the West in the afternoon and veering to the Northeast at night. Thermal influence and variation is at it strongest close to the asian continent. The summer wind is at its strongest near the western tips of the large islands and funnelling with great ardour in the straights between Rhodos & Karpathos as well Samos & Ikaria. In spring and fall a Low Pressure system approaching the Balkan peninsula may generate hefty South-easterlies blowing through the channels between the island chain and the continent
While cruising in summer, the greatest hurdle consists at beating from Rhodes to Kos, the stretch being directly up wind. The riddle is solved by making best use of the thermal variation by sailing in a westerly direction at night and during the morning (when the wind is from a NNE direction) while from midday till the evening favor a northeasterly course (when the wind has a WNW slant). It is thus feasible to sail northwards, but not necessarily easy, as local geography complicates the task by generating further wind variations.
A similar strategy may be applied when trying to sail across the Aegean, through the Kyklades: sail northwards in the afternoon till reaching Patmos. Then, once the night has fallen, the wind abated and veered to the NNE, shape a Westerly course. Thus, one may easily reach Mykonos by sun rise. On the other hand if sailing only in daylight, departing from Patmos, one would only fetch Amorgos, as Asia minor’s thermal influence corrupts the Meltemi till Naxos’ East coast. (Following link # 1 for our 2 weeks itinerary from Paros to Paros via the Dodecanese)
Scenery / Must see : the most interesting islands are (as usual) the least known and the smallest : Kastelorizon (Megisti), Halki, Symi, Nisyros, Arki and Gaidaros (Agathonisi). Surrounded by turquoise waters, these islands are generally dry and rocky, dotted with olive trees with the occasional goat herds munching on dry bushes. The architecture consists of a happy mix from cycladic and Neoclassical styles with the odd italian Art Deco public building thrown in.

The largest islands offer a good level of services with chandleries, marinas and airports. Near fertile coastal plains, Rhodos’ medieval town, magnificent Lindos, the cycladic Hora topped by its monastic fortress of Patmos nor theold town harbour of Pythagorion should not be missed.

Must savor: Wines of Rhodos (from Athiri, Mandilaria & Moschato Aspro cultivars - CAIR & Emery cellars are worth a visit) and the extraordinary sweet Muscat Blanc (Moschato Aspro, VLDQS. Cellars of the local coop winery ) of Samos, aged in oak casks and worth a good Sauternes. Sample in late spring, when milk is at its tastiest, the goat cheese pastries (sweet or salty poungia). In Rhodos try fresh home made pasta (Hylopites) and onion fritters (Pitaroudia).

The Northern Aegean

Past the northern Cyclades chain (Euboea – Samos axis) there’s a definite climatic change. If summer winds are somehow weaker, the seasonal variation is well marked with increased rainfall and harsher winters. It’s Balkan weather and even the sky has a different hue. The area is divided in 2 cruising zones which bear some similarities, although the westernmost (aka Northern Sporades) is much more developped and receives alot of foreign visitors, whereas the eastermost island group is more numerous, more spread out, less visited (much further away from Athens) representing a quasi virgin cruising territory.

The Northern Sporades

Backed by the spectacular mountain ranges of Eubea and Pelion (Centaurs’ mythical homeland) the Sporades island group belongs to the top tourist destinatons in Greece, boasting moderate winds, mild temperatures, lovely villages and pine groves reaching the beachfront.
The quasi unhinhabited island of Kyra Panaghia aswell as some adjacent islets constitute a unique natural park for the endangered mediterranean monk seal (Monachus Monachus)
Weather & sailing : a moderate northerly (Meltemi “light”) is predominant in summer, freshening near Skyros. Thunderstorms or downpours are not uncommon on calm days.
Scenery / Must see : Among Greece’s top ten island destinations Skopelos should not be missed! Visit the Choras (island capitals) of Skopelos and Skyros. Moor in wonderful, sheltered coves such as Panormos, Elios (Klima), Agios Petros and Planitis (at Kyra Panaghia).
Architecture carries influence from nearby Pelion, where one may find some respite when tourist hordes swamp Skiathos.
Must savor: delicious tiny apples (firikia) from Pelion orchards, twisted goatcheese puffs (strifti tyropita), stuffed vine leaves (yaprakia) as well as yews’milk cheeses from Skyros, lamb and herbs fricassé in Skopelos, seafood in Alonissos.

Sample local grappa (tsipouro) young or aged (palaiomeno) in casks or even anis flavored (Glykanisso). While there are no great local wines, the nearby mainland has some excellent VQPRD such as Anghialos’ dry whites (from Rodhitis & Savatiano cultivars) and superb reds from Rapsani (from Xynomavro & Stavroto cultivars)

The Eastern Sporades

Note: You will find mentions of Ikaria, which doesnot belong administratively, to the island group, but certainly does cruisingwise!
Weather & sailing : a moderate northerly (Meltemi “light”) is predominant in summer, freshening along the Dardanelles to Mykonos axis. Thunderstorms or downpours are not uncommon on calm days. Patches of radiation fog may occur in spring during southerly winds. Winters are wet, cold and often stormy.
Scenery / Must see : At last a tranquil mediterranean summer cruising area!

An archipelago consisting of quite large islands and a handfull tiny ones caracterized by their volcanic past with its number of very large enclosed bays (almost inland seas!) and its dry scenery (except on parts of Lesvos). The towns’ architecture is defined by a pleasant mix of Neoclassical and Asia Minor styles reminiscent of a prosperous past. Ikaria’s fascinating hinterland is best explored from the ports of Loutra or Evdhilos. In Chios, the small ports of Emborio, Lithi, Volissos or Kardamila will allow you to experience the medieval atmosphere of Mesta and Pirghi or renaissance in Kampos. Further north, Lesvos, by far the vastest, boasts a wide variety of sceneries: fossililized forest in Sigri, wooded coastline around Sykaminea, 11 million olive trees covering the center, chestnut forest near Aghiassos, pretty neoclassical town of Mytilini and a lovely small town topped by a turkish castle in Molyvos (Mythimna). There are also 2 very interesting art museums to explore. Finally in Lemnos, do not miss the visit of Myrina’s Byzantine town and castle nor its wine cellars!

Must savor: Mastic unique to southern Chios only (from Pistacia lentiscus) famous for its medicinal properties (Mastic contains antioxidants, and also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. It may cure peptic ulcers by killing Helicobacter pylori bacteria and absorbs cholesterol, thus easing high blood pressure and reduces the risk of heart attacks, chewing mastic also reduces oral bacteria levels) and unique taste is found in a great variety of preparations, cakes and drinks!
Lesvos has superb olive oil and a great variety of anis flavoured spirits, world famous Ouzo, as well as excellent yews’milk cheeses matured in olive oil (Ladotyri). Sandy and and wind swept Lemnos is higly suitable for the Muscat d’Alexandrie cultivar and one should definitively indulge in the fine white wines made there in either fruity dry or smooth and sweet varieties to accompany local fish or goat dishes. Red wine buffs will have to fall back on the nearest mainland cultivars of Xynomavro and Limnio from VDQRS Amyndaio, Naoussa, Goumenissa, Ossa or the Cabernet Sauvignon Cotes de Meliton (Domaine Porto Carras winery organized by Professeur Peynaud & French oenologist M. Mazuric) from Chalkidiki.


Finally, there are also some faraway, difficult to access destinations like Kassos & Karpathos, Crete, Kythira & Antikythira, Thassos & Samothraki : for the bravest only

Notes

Itineraries
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2 [4]
Wine

Greece: the wine connoisseur’s new frontier? “No poem was ever written by a waterdrinker” Homer, Greek epic poet, (8 Century BC).

For most of Rome's winemaking history, Greek wine was the most highly prized with domestic Roman wine fetching far lower prices while in medieval times, malmseys, cretans or muscats, among others, were the fabled drinks of European gentry.

Forget bottled “retsina” and uninspiring tastes. Greece is not any more an old-fashioned producer stuck in the middle ages. After several centuries of neglect through foreign occupation, strife and diseases, the 400-odd genuine greek cultivars are striking back.

The new generation of greek winemakers have all studied oenology abroad (from France and South Africa to California) bringing in the latest know-how of wine making and adapting them to the amazing variety of local ancient grapes.

The result: 109 rated wines, 29 VQPRD of which 15 declared outstanding by Robert Parker’s expert team. And the best piece of news is that all these wines are made from indigenous varieties. In the Cyclades you have the opportunity to sail to some of the finest, most ancient and intriguing cultivars: Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani and Mandilaria in Santorini, Monemvasia (Malmsey), Asyrtiko, Savatiano and Mandilaria in Paros. On all the other islands you will of course taste some of the less polished local wines as well as fiery tsipouro/raki (grappa) but you will undoubtly be able to sample some of the other great wines Greece has on offer. To name but a few, from the Peloponnese, the balanced yet spicy Moschofilero (indigenous Blanc de Gris) from Mantineia, the dry red Agiorghitiko Nemeas or the historic fortified sweet red wine Mavrodafni from Patras. From Samos the amazing, classical sweet white Moschato Aspro. From northern Greece, the incredible Muscat d’Alexandrie coming in both fruity-dry and semi sweet varieties from the island of Lemnos. From Lower Olympus (Rapsani) Xynomavro, Stavroto and Krasato or Macedonian great red blends based on unique Xynomavro and Limnio.

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