Lesvos

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Revision as of 20:42, 23 August 2008

Lesvos (Port of Entry)

Background

Road in Mytelene by Theophilos
Click for larger view

Lesvos (Λέσβος) or Mitilini, with an area of 1,698 km² and 140,000 inhabitants, is the largest of the East Aegean islands. Its tallest mountain is Lepetymnos, 968 m high. The capital of the island and its main harbor is the bustling town of Mitilini or Mytilene is dominated by a large Genoese castle.

The history of the island is long. In antiquity, Lesvos was not only famous as the island of the poetess Sappho but also of the lyric poet Alkeos, the wise man Pittakos, the musician Arion, and the philosopher Theophrastos. Today there are many archaeological sites on the island. During the Byzantine times, the island was invaded many times by the Arabs, the Venetians, and later by the Turks. In the late days of the Byzantine empire, Lesvos was given to the Genoese family of the Gateluzi who built many castles. In the late 15th century Lesvos fell to the Ottomans. There were several unsuccessful attempts to recapture the island, such as the one by Orsato Giustiniano in 1464, another by Pesaro in 1499, and another yet by the Knights of Rhodes (later of Malta) in 1501. Lesvos stayed under the Ottoman rule until 1912 when it became part of Greece. In modern times, there have been a large number of famous Greeks in Lesvos, such as the Nobel laureate "poet of the Aegean" Odysseas Elytes (whose family came from Lesbos), the novelist Stratis Myrivilis, and the primitive painter, Theophilos many of whose paintings one can enjoy at the Theophilos Museum near Mitilini.

Charts

BA 1087 Kólpos Petalión to Edremit körfezi
BA 1665 Nisos Lesvos and Çandarli Korfezi to Baba Burnu Ayvalik

Imray-Tetra G2 Aegean Sea (North)

NIMA 54382 Nisos Lesvos and Western Coast of Turkey

Greek 33 Cape Sounion to Lesvos I.
Greek 332 Lesvos Island

Radio Nets

Also see World Cruiser's Nets

• Coast Guard - VHF channel 12, telephone +30 251 20 320 (Mitilini), +30 252 32 296 (Plomari), +30 2530 71 307 (Mithimna)
• Olympia Radio - VHF channels Channels 01 and 02, no signal in Sigri
• GSM/GPRS - Good signal except in Faneromeni and Cape Petrinos

Approach and Navigation

Lesvos is a large island with several harbors and anchorages. The approaches to Lesvos are straightforward except that when approaching Sigri where you must use the S channel.

If entering Greece it is advisable to contact the Coast Guard (Limenarchio) on VHF channel 12.

Ports and Popular Stops

Mytilene

Mytilene (Μυτιλήνη) or Mitilini [39°06' N 26° 33.5' E] is a large and busy harbor. It is also one of the most polluted harbors in the Aegean. Raw sewage is being discharged into the harbor at the very spot where yachts are moored. The harbor provides all-round shelter but an uncomfortable swell can develop with southerly winds. You can moor either stern-to or alongside the N side of the inner harbor.

The town of Mytilene is a wonderfully alive one. There are terrific pastry stores, and a wonderful market place. Many restaurants. The restaurants on the SW of the harbor have good fish. Water is available from an outlet next to Sappho's statue.

Mytilene is port of entry. The Customs and Coast Guard officials tend to be more bureaucratic than in any other harbor that I have been in Greece (--Istioploos 11:48, 9 June 2008 (MDT)). Sometimes the Coast Guard demands that you contact them before departure on VHF channel 12.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• July 1999 --Istioploos 11:48, 9 June 2008 (MDT)

Satellite view of the Mytilene Harbor Click for larger view

The Traditional Caïque Faneromeni in Mytilene Harbor Click for larger view

Plomari

Plomari (Πλωμάρι) or Plomarion [38° 58.3' N 26° 22' E] is the ouzo capital of the world. Here is the factory of the Barbayianni ouzo which has an outlet. It is located on the S coast of Lesvos. The harbor provides good shelter from the meltemi but with southerlies there is bad swell. The bottom is sand and rocks, good holding if you avoid the rocks. Moor stern-to the quay.

Caution:: There are some large rocks near the quay, just below the surface, watch very carefully as you are backing to the quay.

The Bachus restaurant, on the NE of the harbor has very good food. Fuel is available from a station about 500 m up the road E of the harbor, but you have to cart with jerry cans. There is a water outlet by the park, but you cannot connect it to a house, you have to carry.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• 1995 --Istioploos 11:48, 9 June 2008 (MDT)

Port Sigri

Sometimes one forgets that even a town can be peaceful and can have wonderful places to visit while maintaining your privacy. Sigri (Σίγρι) is such a place. Sigri [39° 12.5' N 25° 51.2' E] is at the SW corner of Lesvos. It is protected from the W by Meganisi or Sigri Island and surrounded by wonderful pristine beaches. There are many secure nearby anchorages. With the meltemi it is best to anchor under the lee of the castle on the S of the town at 6 m. There is a reputation of bad holding but I have never had any trouble here. To be prudent check the anchor with a snorkel.

With southerly winds it best to anchor N of the castle just off the entrance of the small fishing harbor in depths about 7-5 m. Good holding on mud. Alternately, you can go to Faneromeni [39° 14.6' N 25° 51.2' E] a delightful anchorage N of Sigri Bay. Anchor on sand in 5-4 m. Good holding. This cove is exposed to the W. Another wonderful totally isolated cove [39° 16.2' N 25° 52.7' E] is further N, just S of Cape Petinos. Anchor in 4 m over sand.

Caution: Always enter and exit Sigri Bay during daylight from the S by means of the channel between Sedhousa Island and Cape Sigri. The N channel is too shallow and dangerous with minimum depths of 3.5.

There are not many facilities at Sigri but what it lucks in facilities it more than makes it up in natural wonders. This is the place to visit the famous Petrified Forest both in the mainland at Meganisi. The restaurants here offer surprisingly sophisticated food. The new Museum of Natural History, within the town, is very interesting.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• June 2006 --Istioploos 11:48, 9 June 2008 (MDT)

Sigri Castle Click for larger view

The Bay N of Sigri Click for larger view

The Cove of Faneromeni near Sigri Click for larger view

Mithimna

Mithimna (Μήθυμνα) or Methymna or Molivos (Μόλυβος) is a small harbor on the NW coast of Lesvos [39° 22' N 26° 10' E]. It is a picturesque harbor and the village of Molivos, about 10 minutes up the hill, is also very picturesque. Unfortunately it is one of the most touristically developed areas in the island. The harbor provides excellent shelter throughout the year. It is best to come alongside on the new mole. Both fuel and water are available.

Warning: The Coast Guard here is very diligent in collecting the harbor dues and checking the yacht's papers.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• June 2006 --Istioploos 11:48, 9 June 2008 (MDT)

The Harbor of Mithymna
Click for larger view

Petra

A small harbor [29° 20.5' N 26° 10.5' E] on the W coast and S of Mithimna. It provides excellent shelter from the meltemi.

Skala Mistegno

A small harbor [39° 13' N 26° 29' E] on the E coast of the island.

Panagiouda

A small and shallow harbor on the E coast of the island. It is good alternative to the Mitilini harbor.

Marinas & Yacht Clubs

On the S side of the harbor of Mytilene there is a marina under construction but, as many such cases in Greece, no-one can predict when it will be completed.

Anchorages

Skala Sikaminias

Protected from the N wind but dangerous with strong NE winds.

Makris Yialos

There are several beaches here which can make a nice anchorage with protection from the meltemi. In settled weather the sandbar in Aspróniso or Aspronísi [39° 17.9' N 26° 25.9' E] makes a delightful anchorage. Anchor in 3-4 m over sand. Excellent holding.

Danger: The area is full of reefs and rocks, so approach very carefully.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• June 2002 --Istioploos 11:48, 9 June 2008 (MDT)

Aspronisi in Makris Yialos
Click for larger view

Panaria

This is an not too unattractive bay that provides some shelter from the meltemi.

Warning: The bay is exposed to the E and with the evening E wind it is untenable. Areas that appear to be somewhat sheltered are too shallow.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• July 1999 --Istioploos 11:48, 9 June 2008 (MDT)

Gulf of Yeras

Yeras (Γέρας) land locked gulf on the SE coast of the island. There are several anchorages. The water near Perama may be polluted. Inside the gulf, however, the water is clean but murky with a nice greenish color. There are many anchoring possibilities depending on the direction of the wind. The SE cove [39° 03.8' N 26° 31.9' E] is particular attractive and secluded. Anchor is 6 m, good holding.

Warning: Care must be exercised while entering the gulf. Electronic charts can be way off.

Another good possibility is to anchor in a cove just outside the gulf, slightly E of the Kalogeros reef [39° 01' N 26° 32.7' E]. Weeds on the bottom so make sure the anchor holds. Anchor in 6-7 m. The bottom slopes very rapidly. Taverna ashore but operates in the evening only in July and August.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• June 2002 --Istioploos 11:48, 9 June 2008 (MDT)

Entering the Gulf of Yeras Click for larger view

The SE Cove in Yeras Click for larger view

Mirsinia Bay

Gulf of Kalloni

A large land-locked gulf on the S coast of the island. There are several anchorages. The water may be polluted. There are strong gusts.

Offshore Islands

None.

Routes/Passages To/From

Popular passages/routes, timing, etc.

Tourism & things to do ashore

This is a very large island and it will take months if not years to explore. There several noteworthy archaeological sites . Here are some highlights.

The Town of Mytilene

The Archaeological Museum has a very good collection attractively displayed in an old mansion. It is open from 8:00 to 14:30 every day except on Mondays.

There is a very nice collection of 20th century art at the Teriade Museum-Library. It exhibits works of Henri Matisse, Joan Miro, Marc Chagall, and of many contemporary Greek artists. There is also a Museum of Folkloric Art.

About 4 km S of Mitilini there is the wonderful Theophilos Museum with many wonderful primitive paintings.

The Castle, on the N of the harbor built by the Genoese Gateluzzi at 1373 is also worth a visit. It is open daily from 8:30 to 15:00 except on Mondays. The Byzantine Museum is closed on Sundays.

In Plomari

A tour of the Barbayianni ouzo distillery is very interesting. One can sample various types of ouzo.

In Sigri

The main attraction here is a visit to the Petrified Forest with 20 million old petrified sequoia trees. You will need to take a taxi (about 20 minutes) to visit the main site. Alternatively at the NW of the island of Meganisi there are also a few petrified trunks. In town there is a new Museum of Natural History which gives a very good orientation on the Petrified Forest and the geological history of the Aegean. It is open from 8:30 AM to 16:30 PM every day except Monday.

If you take the dinghy to Meganisi, it is worth to visit the lighthouse. It is one of the few remaining manned lighthouses in Greece. It is still using the old Fresnell lens, handmade in France in the middle 1980's, and it is rotated by a mechanical clockwork powered by weights.

The small Genoese castle is also interesting. It has a marvelously well preserved massive wooden gate.

To the S of Sigri there are many interesting places to see by walking along the dirt road to Eressos. Just past the bay of Sigri, over the cliff, there is an intact petrified trunk submerged under the shallow water. Further to the S just inland from Plaka there is a marsh with thousands of small terrapins. The scene here is desert like and stark but very beautiful.

Petrified tree Click for larger view

The Genoese Castle at Sigri Click for larger view

In Molyvos

The 13 century Genoese Fortress Mithimna, perched on the N side of the town is worth the climb.

Also it is fun to walk in the narrow streets and alleys of the medieval town.

View from the Castle Click for larger view

The Castle of Mithimna Click for larger view

Fuel, Water, & Electricity

• Fuel - In Mithimna directly from the pump; in Plomari there is a gas station about 500 m E of the harbor (you have to carry)
• Water - In Mithimna there is an outlet for a hose by the quay; in Plomari there is a faucet at the entrance to the little park; in Mytilene there is a faucet under the statue of Sappho
• Electricity - N/A

Laundry

In Mytilene there is a laundry just S of the harbor.

Grocery & Supply Stores

In every town there are stores where you can buy provisions but the shopping in Mytilene is exceptional. There are terrific pastry stores, and a wonderful market place.

Eateries

• In Mytilene there are many restaurants. The restaurants on the SW of the harbor have good fish
• In Plomari the Bachus restaurant, on the NE of the harbor has very good food
• At Port Sigri there is a surprisingly fancy restaurant, Remetzo, serving fresh lobsters. It is under the castle. Also the Matravino, at the main square, has excellent food at more modest prices
• In the village of In Vafios, about 4-5 km from Molyvos the Vafios taverna that specializes in mezedes and grilled meat. Along the road from Mithina to Molyvos the Archontico is a good value.

Internet/WiFi

N/A

Motorbike & Car Rentals

In Mytilene.

Marine Stores & Facilities

In Mytilene.

Repairs

Only minor.

Transportation

There are daily flights from Athens and several ferryboats to other islands. Also there is an occasional small ferry to Ayvalik in Turkey.

References & Publications

See Greece.

Cruiser's Friends

Contact details of "Cruiser's Friends" that can be contacted for local information or assistance.

Forum Discussions

List links to discussion threads on the Cruiser Log Forum

External Links

• Lesvos Wikipedia
• Museum of Natural History in Sigri
• Petrified Forest

Personal Notes

Personal experiences?

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

See individual ports in this page.

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