Skiathos
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Skiathos
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Background
Skiathos (Σκιάθος) is the most touristically developed of the Sporades. As a result in the past several years it has been cursed by many large and ugly new buildings, especially along its southern shores. By nature, Skiathos is a beautiful island, mountainous and very green, with large trees, and its reputed 62 beaches are of stunning beauty. Unfortunately very few have been left in their natural state. Most have been "developed" which translates into bars, blasting loudspeakers, umbrellas, cigarette buts, beach chairs, plastic wrappers and may other non-natural elements.
To my mind, as to the mind of most people raised and educated in Greece, Skiathos is synonymous with the archetypal Greek island. This is because of our early introduction to the vivid short stories of Alexandros Papadiamantis which all take place in Skiathos. Papadiamantis is maybe Modern Greece's pre-eminent short story writer. He lived and wrote in Skiathos. His stories are populated with local characters who move along the countryside and gaze on the sea and its waves braking on the rocks. He wrote in an archaic form of language, catharevousa, that no one uses any more and is hard to read, but the characters all spoke in the vernacular dialect of the island. Despite the language barrier these stories are totally absorbing. The modest house where Papadiamantis lived and worked is now a museum. My inner vision of Papadiamantis' Skiathos contrasted with the modern polyglot reality is stark.
The history of Skiathos is almost identical with the history of Skopelos. The small fort, Bourtzi, between the old and the new harbor was built by Venetian Gizzis. Many of the island inhabitants are descendants of refugees from Evia who settled on Skiathos in 1790.
Charts
BA 1062 Nisoi Voríoi Sporades
Imray-Tetra G25 Northern Sporades and North Nisos Evvoia
NIMA 54350 Nisoi Vorioi Sporadhes
Greek 331 Sporades to Ay. Efstratios
Radio Nets
Also see World Cruiser's Nets
- Coast Guard - VHF channel 12
In general, during the summer months the meltemi is weaker in the Sporades region. Approaches to the island are straight forward, no dangers.An exception to this is the approach to the Harbor of Skiathos.
WARNING: The approach the Harbor of Skiathos, especially at night, can be tricky because of the confusion caused by the flashing red lights at Dhaskalo islet and at the end of the ferryboat mole.
Ports and Popular Stops
There is only one harbor in Skiathos and several attractive coves.
Skiathos Harbor
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Click for larger view
Skiathos Harbor [39° 09.9' N 23° 29.6' E] provides excellent shelter. There are several anchoring possibilities:
- Anchor in the old harbor, which is the most sheltered. This is not always possible because of the large number of day-trip boats. Also it can be noisy here at night. If you do come stern-to after dropping the anchor at 4-5 m. The bottom is sand with good holding.
- Dock either stern-to or side-to along the concrete quay of the new harbor (N of the old harbor). The bottom is sand with good holding.
- Dock stern-to on the newer floating dock. Drop the anchor in about 6-5 m. The bottom is sand with good holding. The disadvantage here is that you are more exposed to swell, on the other hand it much more quiet here at night than along the quay or in the old harbor.
- Anchor off on the eastern side of the bay. Good holding.
WARNING: Avoid the restricted area along the flight path to the airport.
 The Quay at the New Harbor |
 The Floating Dock at the New Harbor |
Marinas & Yacht Clubs
None.
Anchorages
Vasilias
This is a cove about 1 nM W of the Old Harbor. Several local yachts anchor off here.
Kanapitsa
Kanapitsa is a sheltered cove about 3 M SW of Skiathos Harbor. It used by several local yachts and looks attractive despite the near by hotels.
Platanias Bay
This is a large bay E of Koukounaries. It is well sheltered from the meltemi but exposed the southerlies (avoid in the fall). Many large hotels.
Koukounaries
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Despite the number of tourist at the beach during the day, this is my favorite anchorage in Skiathos. There is a small harbor where, if there is any room you can tie side-to or take aline to the quay. Both places are usually occupied by flotillas. It is best to anchor off the beach at about 6 m. The bottom is sand and provides good holding. The bay is sheltered from the meltemi but exposed the southerlies (avoid in the fall).
While Koukounaries (Κουκουναριές) [39°08.9' N 24°.2' E] may not be the "most beautiful beach in Greece" as the locals will tell you, it is still a wonderful beach with a pine forest all the way to the waterfront. The whole area is a park and protected from development. The beach is crowded during the day, but the park closes at night and you can then enjoy this great anchorage.
About a 15 minute walk from the footbridge (turn left at the asphalt road) there are several groceries and restaurants.
North Coves
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There are many attractive sand beaches on the N shore of the island where you can anchor but they are all exposed to the meltemi. The nicest ones are: Mandraki [39° 10' N 023° 04.6' E], Anemosouria, Megalos Aselinos, Mikros Aselinos, Kastro, the famous Lalaria, and Megalos Yialos.
Offshore Islands
None.
Routes/Passages To/From
Popular passages/routes, timing, etc.
Tourism & things to do ashore
Skiathos Town
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Click for larger view
It is hard to walk the narrow streets of the town of Skiathos without thinking of Papadiamantis and his wonderful stories. The house where he lived, wrote, and died is now a museum. Anyone who has read any of his vivid stories will want to visit it.
The town today is not of course the same town as the one described by Papadiamantis. It is full of tourists and all the sordid establishments that cater to them. Yet, despite it all, I love wandering in these streets.
The Beaches
Skiathos is famous for its many beaches. The most famous of which is Koukounaries and Lalaria. All these beaches are full of tourists during the day, brought by day-trip boats, and are far from pristine with ugly food/drink stands and littered with empty bottles, food wrappers. Too many people, too much "civilization." Skiathos is a lovely island, but ...
A nice walk in the woods of Koukounaries, especially early in the morning or late in the evening when the hordes have gone, is very pleasant.
 Lalaria Beach |
 The Forest in Koukounaries |
 The Beach under the Kastro |
The Monastery of Evangelistria
The Monastery of Evangelistria was founded in 1797. It is open from 8 to 12 and from 16 to 20. It is located in a lovely spot and has a very attractive garden. Here was a place that during the Ottoman years many fugitives and revolutionaries found refuge. Within the monastery there is a small museum recalling this past.
Kastro
Kastro was the old capital of the island. It was abandoned in 1829 and is now a ghost town reminiscent of Mystras. A scenic dirt road along the N side of the island leads you to the chapel of St. John the Beheaded from where you will have to proceed on foot. The chapel is shaded by large cypress and sycamore trees and it commands a wonderful view of the sea. A spring in the yard gushes clear ice water. A good walk takes you to Kastro, perched on top of rock surrounded by the sea on three sides and separated from the rest of the island by a narrow bridge, overhanging the cliff. It is lovely if haunting scene.
There are left only 8 of the original 30 Byzantine churches. Some have frescoes or are decorated with nice ceramic tiles. Among the various ruined houses are also the ruins of a Turkish hamam bath. Near by is the 15th century of Panayia Kechriá with some fine frescoes.
 The Bridge of Kastro |
 Ceramic Decorations |
Fuel, Water, & Electricity
- There is a Mini tank that services boat in the harbor but it is very hard to get as they refuse to deliver small quantities of fuel. There is a gas station about 300 m west from the floating dock.
- There some water outlets near the quay.
- Electricity is not available.
Laundry
The Χιωνάτη (Chionati - Snow White) on 13 Filocleous Georgiadou street, the inner street paralleling the harbor, provides same day service.
Grocery Stores
There are several supermarkets in the town.
Eateries
- The up-scale Family restaurant near the Clock Tower has an extensive selection of wines from small Greek vineyards and their food is superb.
- The Mesogia restaurant is the oldest in town and has a very good reputation.
- There several pleasant ouzo places on the waterfront of the old town.
Motorbike & Car Rentals
Several places along the esplanade.
Marine Stores & Facilities
There is only one store that sell supplies for fishermen.
Repairs
N/A.
Transportation
There are 4 flights per week to Athens and several hydrofoils to Ayios Konstantinos, Volos, and the other islands.
References & Publications
See Greece.
Cruiser's Friends
Contact details of "Cruiser's Friends" that can be contacted for local information or assistance.
Forum Discussions
List links to discussion threads on the Cruiser Log Forum
External Links
- Skiathos (Wikipedia)
- Skiathos Tourism
Personal Notes
Personal experiences?
.
