Leros

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Leros

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	37°07.5′N, 26°51.1′E
	Photo gallery
	Local chartlet

Leros (Λὲρος) is a fairly low an island of 53 km² and 8,000 inhabitants. It has many beautiful beaches and unspoiled villages and a wildly serrated coastline. Poor Leros, she has been downgraded for centuries. First, the name which means "dirty" and "malodorous." Then, the large psychiatric hospitals, then the terrible legacy of the very destructive Battle of Leros during the WW II when she was bombarded for over 50 days and finally invaded by the Germans in a dramatic landing. During the days of the junta Leros was a place of exile and torture housing the infamous prison of Partheni. Finally, in more recent time it has received some very bad press concerning the condition in the remaining psychiatric hospital.

SW View from the Kastro
Click for larger view

The island has been inhabited since prehistoric times. The first inhabitants were most likely Pelasgians, Lelekes, and Karians. They were followed by the Dorians who were succeeded by the Ionians from Miletus. Homer mentions Leros, together with Kalymnos, as the "Kalydian islands" and included them in his Catalogue of Ships in the Iliad.

Leros was the sacred island of Artemis. According to the Mythology, after the death of the hero Meleager (the killer of the Calydonian Boar), Artemis took pity on the sorrow of his sisters and turned them into a guinea fowl and put them in her temple at Partheni.

Leros was occupied by the Persians who departed after their defeat in Salamis. During the Peloponnesian War, Leros sided with Sparta. In the Roman times, Leros and the surrounding islands were dominated by pirates. During the Byzantine times the island was part of the Samos prefecture. In 1316 AD Leros was taken by the Knights of St. John and was governed by the Duke of Naxos. From 1455 until 1527 the island was ravaged by pirates until finally it was occupied in 1527 by the Ottomans. In 1821, Leros took part in the War of Independence and became part of the new Greek state. In 1912, along with the rest of the Dodecanese, Leros fell under the Italians who held it until 1943. During this period the Italians built the town of Lakki. They were succeeded by the allied forces, mostly British. The island was then invaded by a large force of German paratroopers and many buildings were destroyed during the Battle of Leros (November 12-16, 1943). The Germans held Leros until the end World War II, when it was united with the rest of Greece in 1948. During the terrible years of the Greek junta (1967-74) the military camp in Partheni was used as a concentration camp for political prisoners.

Music making is a long tradition in Leros. Even today one can encountered live music here with traditional instruments such as: santouri (dulcimer), tsanbouna (bagpipes), lagouto (lute), and thelyra (a small violin-like instrument). The traditional songs and dances are: the Issos Lerikos, the Sousta, the Stavrotos, the Passoumaki, and the Dance of the Broom.

Charts

Satellite View of Leros
Click for larger view

BA

2682 Kolpos Patalion to Nisos Nisiros

3926 Lero island and approaches

Imray-Tetra

G34 Southern Cyclades

NIMA

54400 Samos to Rodhos

Greek

451 Leros to Rhodos

Radio Nets

Also see Cruiser's Nets

• Coast Guard - VHF channel 12
• Olympia Radio - channel 23 at the W of the island; no good signal on the S and E sides

Weather

See Aegean Sea.

Approach and Navigation

The approaches to Leros are straightforward.

Danger: With a strong meltemi there are violent gusts when entering the bays of Lakki and Alindas. Also, with strong southerlies there are gusts and large swells in the bay of Lakki.

Check-in facilities

See Marinas & Yacht Clubs below.

Ports and Popular Stops

Ports

Lakki

Chart of Lakki Harbor - Chartlet
Click for larger view

37°07.5′N, 26°51.1′E
This is the main harbor of the island. It is located on the W side of the island. Lakki (Λακκί) is a deep inlet and it is the largest harbor of the Dodecanese and it affords all around protection. On the N side of the harbor there is small marina operated by Agmar see below.

On the S side there is the Evros shipyard and marina, See Marinas & Yacht Clubs below.

You can anchor off in front of the town at 3-5 m depth. There may be some uncomfortable swell but with northerlies it safe. The bottom is mud and provides good holding.

Lakki is a strange town, not very attractive, but one can find any necessary provisions. It was built by Mussolini and it reflects a fascist architecture. It reminds one of a De Chirico painting.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• May 2008 --Istioploos
• July 2009 --Atheneoflymington 14:14, 16 July 2009 (UTC)

Lakki, Leros
Click for larger view

Pandéli

37°08.98′N, 26°51.77′E Pandéli (Παντέλι) or Panali is a small harbor on the E side of the island and, while very attractive, is normally full of fishing boats. At the harbour entrance (July 2009) is a sign indicating that the harbour is for fishing boats only, so if you visit here it would be wise to anchor off in the bay or go stern-to the rocky headland at Vromolithos, the adjoining bay, to avoid any possible confrontation. Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here) Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated: September 2008 --Istioploos July 2009--Atheneoflymington 12:41, 15 July 2009 (UTC)

Chart of Pandéli Harbor Click for larger view

Pandéli & Vromolithos as seen from Kastro Click for larger view

Pandeli harbour Click for larger view

Anchorages

Xerocambos

37°06.45′N, 26°52.3′E Xerocambos (Ξηρόκαμπος) or Xirocambos is a very attractive and large anchorage on the S side of the island. It affords very good protection from the meltemi (although gusts enter the bay) but it is exposed to the S. Around ten moorings have been laid in the bay by the tavernas ashore and, if you use one, you will be expected to dine at the taverna concerned. The one on the W side Aloni (Lefteris and Evelyn) is particularly friendly to yachtsmen. If anchoring, look for a spot of sand and anchor in 5-6 m (the bottom is mostly weed and holding is not always very good). Once the anchor holds, however, the cove is very secure. It is about 1 hr. walk to Lakki which is also served by bus. About an hour walk up the ridge on the E side of Xerocambos there is an abandoned WW II Italian house with wall frescoes painted by the Italian soldiers garrisoned there. Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here) Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated: July 2009--Atheneoflymington 12:49, 15 July 2009 (UTC) August 2009 --Istioploos

Chart of Xerocambos Click for larger view

Xerocambos from Paliokastro Click for larger view

Italian Fresco Click for larger view

Vromolithos

37°08.8′N, 26°51.7′E
Vromolithos (Βρωμόλιθος) is a small anchorage on the SE side of the island, just west of Pandeli, with room for several yachts to anchor in the lee of the headland. Anchor in 8-12 metres just off the headland and take a long line back to the rocks. This position offers good protection from the meltemi. The swimming area off the beach at Vromolithos is buoyed and yachts wishing to swing to their anchor have to drop a long way out, where the protection is less good. The Paradiso Taverna above the beach does a boiled octopus to die for and Dimitris O Karaflas taverna on top of the headland offers excellent food at sensible prices and is invariably packed with locals.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• September 2008 --Istioploos
• July 2009 --Atheneoflymington 14:28, 16 July 2009 (UTC)

Alindas

37°10′N, 26°50.4′E ´Alindas (Άλινδας) or Alinda is a large bay on the east coast of Leros which offers better protection than would at first appear from the meltemi. Anchor off the beach at the NW end of the bay in 4-5 metres, where there is little swell and few gusts in winds up to 6/7 Beaufort. The bottom is sand and rock and you may need more than one attempt to get your anchor to hold. Nevertheless, Alinda is an attractive spot with some good tavernas ashore including the good Italian restaurant da Giusi. There is also an interesting folklore/WW II museum in a nicely maintained private mansion, the Bellini Tower. Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here) Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated: July 2009--Atheneoflymington 13:05, 15 July 2009 (UTC) August 2009 --Istioploos

Chart of Alindas Bay - Chartlet Click for larger view

Alindas (looking north)"

Blafouti

37°11.6′N, 26°49.2′E - Chartlet
Blafouti (Μπλαφούτι) or Blefoutis or Plakouti is an attractive cove on the NE side of the island. It is reasonably well protected from the meltemi (though shelter is not as good as at Partheni) and in winds from W through to SE. The most sheltered, westerly, side of the anchorage is mostly taken up with small boat moorings and yachts therefore need to anchor closer to the middle of the cove. The bottom is sand and weed, not always good holding. There is a small taverna ashore, I Thea Artemis, which serves good fish.

Danger: There are several reefs at the entrance to the cove. Enter from the E of the reef.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• October 2007 --Istioploos
• July 2009 --Atheneoflymington 14:11, 16 July 2009 (UTC)

Partheni

Chart of Partheni - Chartlet
Click for larger view

37°11.5′N, 26°48.3′E
Partheni (Παρθένι) is a large land locked bay on the N side of the island. There is a naval installation on the W side of the bay and a military camp to the SE. Agmar ( 37°11.31′N, 26°48.02′E) operates a shipyard with a 70 ton travel lift for details see bellow. Agmar maintains 3 moorings in front of their facilities which their clients can use temporarily.

The airport is near by.

There is excellent protection on the north side of the inner cove to the E of the bay. Anchor clear of the numerous moorings on the south side of the cove and the small fish farm to the west. Even in a strong meltemi your boat is safe here. However, the setting is not very attractive and there is nothing in the way of facilities. The nearest taverna is opposite the airport some two kilometres away. Add to this the ghosts presence of the military camp, the site of the notorious Partheni prison where many political prisoners were tortured during the days of the junta.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• July 2009 --Atheneoflymington 14:06, 16 July 2009 (UTC)
• May 2010 --Istioploos

View of Partheni with the Agmar Shipyard in the background

N Cove

37°12.1′N, 26°47.9′E
This is a small pleasant cove just N of Partheni. The cove is somewhat exposed to the meltemi but in settled weather it a good place to stop for a swim. Good holding at 6 m.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• October 2001 --Istioploos

NW Cove

37°11.5′N, 26°46.6′E
While this cove is well protected from the S winds, it is not as good an anchorage as it looks because it is deep and then it gets shallow very quickly and at depths of 3-5 m there is lot of weed with very few patches of sand so the anchor may not hold well here.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• September 2005 --Istioploos

Marinas & Yacht Clubs

• Agmar Lakki Marina
• Evros Lakki Marina

Yacht Services and Repairs

Marine Stores

• Agmar Shipyard has a well stocked chandlery
• There is also a store in Lakki, and another in Ayia Marina, both cater mostly to fisherman

Yacht Services/Repairs/Yards

Agmar Shipyard

Agmar ( 37°11.5′N, 26°48′E) operates a shipyard in Partheni with a 70 ton travel-lift and room to store over 250 yachts on the hard. They perform all major repairs and are staffed by skilled technicians. The yard has WCs, showers and a self-service laundry as well as a sail-washing area and a remarkably well-stocked chandlery. Agmar maintains three moorings in front of their facilities which their clients can use temporarily.

The nearby airport is five minutes on foot and the yard will take you to and pick you up from the airport if necessary.

Tel. +30 2470 26 009 Email

I have wintered my boat here since 2000 and have nothing but praise for Mr. Angelos Gaitanides, the manager/owner, and his helpful staff. --Istioploos

Evros Boatyard

Evros Boatyard located near Lakki provides maintenance, repairs, and spare parts.

Fuel, Water, & Electricity

Fuel

is delivered by mini-truck

Water

is available on the quay of the Agmar Lakki Marina, Evros Lakki Marina, and at the Agmar Shipyard at Partheni. However, in all places the water can be brackish but you can have spring water delivered by a mini-truck. Call +30 6944 899 242, Costas.

Electricity

is available on the quay of the Agmar Lakki Marina, Evros Lakki Marina, and at the Agmar Shipyard at Partheni

Offshore Islands

Archangelos

37°11.9′N, 26°46.3′E Archangelos (Αρχάγγελος) is a small island about 0.5 nm N of Partheni. There are two coves on the S side of the island. The E cove is dominated by a fish farm but the W cove is still a pleasant anchorage. Anchor over a patch of sand at 5 m. Good shelter and holding. Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here) Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated: October 2009 --Istioploos Cove in Archangelos Island Click for larger view

Chart of the anchorage in Archangelos - Chartlet Click for larger view

Tourism and Things to do Ashore

Matrona Fresco: Mary Click for larger view

Matrona Fresco: Mary Click for larger view

The Chapel of Ayios Isidoros Click for larger view

Tourism

There many nice places to visit in the island. The most imposing is the Kastro. The view from the castle is superb: you can see both Pandeli, Vromolithos, and Lakki. Inside the castle there is the a jewel of a tiny Ecclesiastical Museum set by the Bishop Nectarios he is the bishop of Leros, Kalymnos, and Astypalea and like all bishops of the Dodecanese he reports to the Patriarch in Istanbul rather then the Archbishop in Athens. Also, inside the castle there is the small church of Panayia Kyra, built on 1300 AD, has several nice frescoes.

At Ayias Annas, visit the Archaeological Museum. The museum has very attractive cases, well labeled and lit, but the exhibits are not major. Further N at Alindas (Άλινδας), on the E side of the island, there is an Ethnological Museum housed in the Bellini Tower, a castle like mansion built by Mr. Bellini, a wealthy Lerian who lived in Egypt. The whole of the second floor of the museum is dedicated to the Battle of Leros and the sinking of the Greek navy ship Olga. All very interesting.

About two km north from Lakki there is the rather unique War Museum in a tunnel dug by the Italians while fortifying the island in preparation for WWII.

In Ayia Marina a small private museum housed in a old wood mill opened in 2009.

E of Partheni, over the cove of Kioura, there is the chapel of Ayia Matrona that has modern frescoes painted by the political prisoners held here at the bleak military camp during the bleak days of the junta (1997-72). Well worth a visit. Also, near Partheni just SW of the airport, there is the site of the Temple of Artemis but unfortunately not very much remains to be seen.

On the NW side of the island, at the N end of Gourna Bay there is a very picturesque Church of Ayios Isidoros built on a tiny island connect to Leros with a narrow causeway. S of Gourna Bay at Drymonas there is the interesting Church of Panaghia Gourlommata. Finally at Lakki there is the Church of Ayios Ioannes Theologos.

Grocery & Supply Stores

• There are two supermarkets at Lakki. The larger of which is Spanos. If you buy large quantities of groceries, both stores will deliver it to the marina or the shipyard
• The bakery next to the Post Office in Lakki has very good bread
• Camping Gaz is available at the Agmar Shipyard chandlery

Eateries

In general the food is good in Leros.

• If you want Italian food, there is a very good restaurant da Giusi e Marcello (tel. +30 22470 24888) run by an Italian couple in Alindas, it is open on only on Fridays and Saturdays for dinner and on Sundays for lunch
• At Lakki you can eat well at either the Agmar Marina restaurant or at the Petrino
• Good food at Frangos and at Dimitris o Karaflas (where the views are stunning) in Vromolithos
• In Ayia Marina the Mylos has excellent sea food
• In Alindas try the Finikas by the sea and To Steki tou Dimitri further along, past the road to the airport
• Also in Alindas, Varelia, at the end of the road, is reputed to be very good

• In Blafouti there is a pleasant taverna, I Thea Artemis, that serves good seafood
• In the W side of Xerocambos the Aloni (Lefteris and Evelyn) is particularly friendly to yachtsmen
• Another good restaurant is the Psaropoula at Pandéli

Internet/WiFi

• Good mobile phone signal
• Agmar provides WiFi in both their shipyard in Partheni and their marina in Lakki

Laundry

• Token operated washing machines at the Agmar Lakki Marina and at the Agmar Shipyard at Partheni
• There is a dry cleaner in Lakki that also does laundry

Motorbike & Car Rentals

• Many rental places at Plátanos and at Lakki
• Pagonis tel. +30 2240 25 831 or +30 6936 259 819 will deliver and pick up a motorbike to your boat

Garbage Disposal

There are bins around the harbors and in several anchorages.

Transportation

There are daily flights and ferries to Athens. In the summer there is hydrofoil service to Kos, Kalymnos, Patmos, Fourni, Lipsi, Agathonisi, and Samos.

Routes/Passages To/From

• Passages between Athens Region and Samos - Kusadasi
• N - S Passages in East Aegean
• Cruising the Dodechanese Islands

Cruiser's Friends

• Travels with S/Y Thetis Vasilis Riginos has been cruising Greek and Turkish waters for over 25 years, as well as having crossed the Atlantic. He winters his boat in Leros. He lives for 6-7 months of the year in Greece and is willing to help any fellow cruisers. Email: vasilis[AT]sy-thetis.org

Forum Discussions

List links to discussion threads on the Cruiser Log Forum

External Links

• Leros (Wikipedia)

References & Publications

See Greece.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

See individual ports in this page.

Personal Notes

Personal experiences?

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