Kalymnos

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Revision as of 23:59, 8 January 2009

Kalymnos

Background

Kálymnos (Κάλυμνος) with an area of 109 km² is the home of the most well known sponge divers in Greece. In years past, they had a large fleet of boats which left the island every year after Easter and went to the shore of N. Africa for several months. The hard life of the sponge divers is well described in the wonderful stories of the Modern Greek writer Yannis Maglis. As the sponge trade diminished, taken over by plastic sponges, the island went into a decline and many of its inhabitants migrated to Tarpon Springs in Florida, USA and later to Australia. Still, there several sponge boats based in Kalymnos and the Kalymniots are not only terrific divers but all around superb seamen of great daring. Not too long ago, a visitor to the island could not fail but notice the large number of crippled men. They were victims of the bends, the embolism caused by un-dissolved nitrogen bubbles in the blood, that is caused by inadequate decompression after a long dive.

According to the mythology, Kalymnos was a son of Ouranos (Sky) and Gaia (Earth). His father flung into the sea but he landed on his mother bosom and rose from sea to become a group of islands named Kalydnai. Kalydnai are mentioned by Homer as a participant to the Trojan War but it was not until the 4th century BC that the largest of the group became known as Kalymnos. A Neolithic settlement has been found near Vothíni and a Neolithic shrine to Zeus in the Kefalos Cave on the S. side of the island. The island was colonized first by Mycenaeans from Argos who were followed by the Dorians. During the Persian Wars it was conquered by the Persian ally Artemisia, the queen of Halicarnassus (modern Bodrum). Following the Persian defeat, Kalymnos joined the Delian League and allied with Athens.

During the Middle ages Kalymnos was part of the Byzantine Empire until the 11th century AD when it was invaded by the Seljuk Turks who killed almost all of its inhabitants. The few survivors retreated inland to the Pera Kástro (Far Castle) which became the island's medieval capital. After the Fourth Crusade, the Vinioli of Genoa took over the island but the sold it to the Knights of St. John who further fortified the old castle. They lasted until 1522 when the knights left to help their brothers in Rhodes who were under siege. After Rhodes fell, the knights moved to Malta and the Ottomans took over both Kalymnos and Rhodes. In 1912 the Italians took Kalymnos along with the rest of the Dodecanese form the Turks. During the fascist period, before the World War II, the Italian fascists tried to convert the islanders to Catholicism and closed down the Greek schools. They were met with fierce opposition. After the war, in 1947, Kalymnos was united with Greece.

Charts

BA 2682 Kolpos Patalion to Nisos Nisiros

Imray-Tetra G34 Southern Cyclades

NIMA 54407 Nisos Kalymnos to Kadriga Burnu

Greek 451 Leros to Rhodos

Radio Nets

Also see Cruiser's Nets

• Coast Guard - VHF channel 12 and tel. +30 2430 28 137
• Olympia Radio - No signal

Approach and Navigation

The approaches to Kalymnos are straightforward.

Warning: There are strong gusts off the island and in the S. bay while approaching the harbor.

Check-in facilities

See Ports

Ports and Popular Stops

Port Kalymnos

Vathís

Vathís (Βαθύϛ - Deep) or Vathí [36° 58.4' N 27° 01.7' E] is a deep fjord on the E side of the island. It is possible to go stern-to the short mole (on the E side, the W side is too shallow). The bottom is sand and weed and not always good holding. Make sure your anchor has penetrated the weed and it is not caught at the roots giving you a false sense of security.

The shelter from the meltemi is excellent but there can be very strong gusts down the steep hills. The place is very attractive. Good food at Popis.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• September 2002 --Istioploos 14:45, 8 June 2008 (MDT)

Myrtia

Anchorages

Vlichádia

Port Akti

This cove is just S of Vathís. With strong meltemi there are swell in the cove. The cove has a large fish farm that dirties the water.

Anchor at the head of the bay.

Palionissos

This cove, also referred to as Baia Isolavecchia, is on the NE side of the island. It is not as good an anchorage as it appears because of the bad holding. There are several iron stakes ashore to tie a line but the bottom is mostly rock with a thin layer of sand. I have had serious problems here with the anchor dragging.

I have been told that now (2003) there is a taverna and a diving center run by Nikolas Makarounas (tel. +30 6932 998 963) who has provided places to tie shore lines.--Istioploos 15:24, 8 June 2008 (MDT)

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• June 1990 --Istioploos 14:45, 8 June 2008 (MDT)

Emboriós

Arginontas

Arginontas
Click for larger view

Arginontas (Αγρινόντας) [37° 00.9' N 26° 58' E] is a very attractive cove about 2 nM E of Emborió. Just a few houses. It is well protected from the meltemi but there is some swell.

Anchor on sand 5-4 m.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• September 2002 --Istioploos 14:45, 8 June 2008 (MDT)

Linaria Bay

This bay is very exposed and subject strong gusts. One can anchor only in calm weather for lunch.

Offshore Islands

Telendos

The E side of Telendos (Τέλενδος) island [36° 59.9' N 26° 55.4' E] is somewhat sheltered from the meltemi. It is a pleasant enough place with many tavernas. Anchor on a patch of sand in 5 m.

Caution:There are two places where underwater cables are run. Anchor a safe distance from these.

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

Date of member's visit to this Port/Stop & this page's details validated:

• September 2002 --Istioploos 14:45, 8 June 2008 (MDT)

Routes/Passages To/From

Popular passages/routes, timing, etc.

Tourism & things to do ashore

Póthia

Póthia is the third largest city in the Dodecanese. It has many old mansions and churches. Along the waterfront there 43 bronze statues by Michael and Irene Kokkinos. The Archeological Museum (open daily except Mondays 10:00-14:00) is housed in an old neoclassical mansion, the Vouvalis mansion. This was the family house of the wealthiest sponge merchant of Kalymnos. It houses the family furniture and personal affects and some archeological artifacts.

The Nautical Museum has a very interesting exhibit on the history of sponge diving. It is an amazing story of wealth, daring, and human misery. Sponge diving was the major occupation in Kalymnos (as well as Symi and Chalki) until recently when natural sponges were replaced by plastic ones. The men will leave the island on small caïques in the Spring and will return in late Autumn. They ranged all along the African coast of the Mediterranean. Many of the divers did not return or returned as cripples. Thousands over the years. Knowledge of the bends did not exist and the treatment was primitive at best. The victim was buried up to his neck in the hot sand. After a few days some survived, others died. The Sponge Diving School is also worth seeing.

Next to the Nautical Museum is the Folklore Museum operated by the local Greek Ladies Club (Lykio Ellinidon). It shows several local costumes and embroideries. They also sell some contemporary stuff.

Chorió

nland from Pothiá is the old capita Chorió build around the castle, Pera Kástro. Not far from Chorio is the Cave of The Seven Virgins where there are holes where libations were poured to the nymphs. On my visit I could not see anything. Legend has it that seven maidens took refuse here from the pirates and disappeared in the cave. In the area there some Mycenaean tombs.

Kolonóstilo Cave

The Kolonóstilo Cave
Click for larger view

This cave also known as the Cyclops Cave, is near Emboriós. It has stalactites. Nearby are the remains of a Venetian castle and a tower believed to be a Neolithic temple.

Kéfalas Cave

It is near Vlichádia. The cave which was a sanctuary to Zeus, was discovered in 1961 and has six chambers of colorful stalactites and stalagmites.

Near Vathís

The area of Vathís is very beautiful with the fjord and its mandarin and lemon groves. The inland village of Platanos has the remains of Cyclopean Walls. In the Daskaleío Cave , which can only be reached by boat, was found a trove of Neolithic and Bronze Age artifacts.

In Vlichádia

The Sea World Museum in Vlichádia is open 10-14. It is operated by its owners the Vaslamidis brothers. It has every attractive and extensive shell collection along with other odds and ends from the sea.

Fuel, Water, & Electricity

• Fuel - Only in the town of Póthia, you will have to carry cans
• Water - N/A
• Electricity - N/A

Laundry

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Grocery Stores

• There are many grocery stores in Póthia
• In Póthia there is a filling station for Camping Gaz

Eateries

• Fried octopus balls (chtapodo-keftedes) is an island specialty and are served in restaurants near the administration building in Póthia
• Other recommended restaurants in Póthia are: Barba-Petros, Minore, Lefteris (near the Metropolis), and Argos (in the waterfront)
• The Paradisos (Paradise) restaurant Vlichádia serves good food
• At Vathís there is good food at Popis
• Good fish also in Telendos
• Good fish also in Emboriós, served in Barba Nicolas, operated by his son Pavlos, and in Captain Costas

Motorbike & Car Rentals

In Póthia.

Marine Stores & Facilities

There are several near the waterfront in Póthia.

Repairs

Many machine and Diesel shops in Póthia.

Transportation

There are in the summer daily ferries to Athens. Also in the summer, there is hydrofoil service to Kos, Rhodes, Sými, Niseros, Leros, Lipsi, Patmos, and Samos.

References & Publications

See Greece.

Cruiser's Friends

Contact details of "Cruiser's Friends" that can be contacted for local information or assistance.

Forum Discussions

List links to discussion threads on the Cruiser Log Forum

External Links

• Kálymnos Wikipedia

Personal Notes

Personal experiences?

Last Visited & Details Checked (and updated here)

See individual ports in this page.

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